SA1000 issue…

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      • December 30, 2023 at 1:17 am #52452

        My pretty-darn-new SA1000 has crapped out on me. Roughly 3sec after powering it on, there’s a “click”, and no audio comes from the subwoofers.I’ve turned down all gain on my AVR, and on the amplifier itself, and it does the same thing still. I’ve even moved it to another outlet, and powered it on with no audio cables connected (not receiving any signal), and it does the same.

        The blue light stays on, so I know it’s receiving power still. I’ve checked the fuse, and it’s still fine, but I replaced it just to be sure and still no luck. Taking it to an electronics repair shop next week.

        The silver lining is that since I currently am unable to use my subs, I was forced to go into my AVR settings and do some poking around. I put speaker configuration to 2 channel, and changed the crossover to “FULL RANGE”, and wowzers do these SoundStage 15’s pump! I think most people would be more than happy with a pair of these without a subwoofer

        • January 3, 2024 at 5:23 am #52477

          Went and dropped off my amp at the electronics repair shop, and had a great time nerding-out over audio gear with the owner!

          Saw some great vintage hi-fi stuff by Marantz, Kenwood, Sansui, Sony, and Technics, some of which I’ll surely be back to buy eventually. He says when he sees iconic pieces on eBay for cheap because they’re broken, he just snaps them up and repairs them, because eventually someone will buy them.

          Also, I’ll be heading back to get him to troubleshoot my weaker front right speaker eventually. He’s pretty backlogged on work, so I don’t want to take it now and have to wait for a week or so for him to get to it.

          Looks like I have a new hangout spot, lol! He seemed just as excited to talk about gear with me as I was to talk with him. He says he wants to hear the system once the amp is added back in

          • January 31, 2024 at 1:35 am #52770

            Relieved, but frustrated…

            Received my amplifier back from the electronics repair shop, and there was nothing wrong with it. He tested all internal components, and did an operational test before giving it back to me. Then, I get it home and it fires right back up.

            • February 17, 2024 at 7:52 am #53023

              So, I’ve been at work on a VERY slow Saturday, and went to PartsExpress, as ya do… Reading through the Q&A on the SA1000 has lead me to a conclusion of what the likely issue was/is, and why it’s intermittent.

              Although there are two sets
              of binding posts on the back of this amp, it is really only one output (both sets of posts are wired in parallel). That means if you
              put an 8ohm sub on each set of posts it will make your total speaker
              impedance/amp load 4ohms. another thing is don’t take this amp above
              8ohms load or below 4ohms load. doing either may cause damage to the
              amp
              .”

              I’ve been running two 4ohm Ultimax 18’s, which means the amplifier has been pushing a 2ohm load… They should really explain that better on the product page, lol

              • February 17, 2024 at 1:55 pm #53026

                “Another thing is don’t take this amp above 8ohms load or below 4ohms load. doing either may cause damage to the amp.”

                The amp is Class G, which, according to the Analog Devices website is described as:

                “Class G
                What is a Class G Amplifier?
                Definition
                Class G amplifiers are similar to class AB amplifiers except they use two or more supply voltages.
                When operating at low signal levels, the amplifier uses a lower supply voltage. As the signal level increases, the amplifier automatically picks the appropriate supply voltage.
                Class G amplifiers are more efficient than class AB amplifiers since they use the maximum supply voltage only when required, while a class AB amplifier always uses the maximum supply voltage.”

                I can see that below a 4 ohm load would cause an over current situation, but above 8 ohms would only reduce the need for additional current. That 2nd half is a head scratcher.
                So yes, your summation of the setup is pretty much the reason why your were having issues.

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