I start with a bunch of old QBASIC programs I wrote / based on articles written by William R. Hoffman in Popular Electronics back in the late 80’s. I used his stuff as a base and then looked around and found a bunch of early websites with information – one of the biggest is Elliot Sound Products – ESP, a vast repository of info. If I like what I see in my stuff, I go to WinISD to get the finer points on a possible design.

Here’s where I go to Toid’s video, How to Use WinISD – Input a New Driver. I use this to make sure I put in just enough to get the integrity check. The video starts at 9:10, where you should take a screenshot and save it for reference. Every place you see a green number is where info was manually entered. Also – be sure that you match the units of whatever you are entering. The units are to the right of each data box, and you can change them by clicking on them until you get to the correct one. Once you are done inputting all the pertinent info, (most of) the rest will auto-calculate and should be close to what is shown on the data sheet for the driver. That’s how you know you did it right.

If you want to know more about T/S parameters and how they are derived and how different typical design affect them, I point to Hexibase’s videos on T/S parameters, Part 1 and Part 2. I suggest a dive into his channel for all kinds of stuff.

So I use WinISD to get the box size and ports, etc, then I use my own mind to finalize the box shape and dimensions. It’s all a part of the art of design. The more you do, the more you find ways to stray from the basic shapes yet still comply with the calculations. That’s the fun of this hobby.

Well, single driver is 250W nom., 1000 W pk., so 4 together adds up to 1000 W nom., 4000 W pk.
I’d think any good amp of somewhere around the 1000W range would have no issues getting you massive bass while not pushing the drivers too far.
I’d love to hear from others if they are around.