Ohms
- This topic has 7 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 11 months, 1 week ago by
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I am planning a small speaker project, for which there will be:
One Tang Band W6-2253S (6.5″ compact sub; 4 ohm; probably 22 awg wires)
Two Tang Band W1-2025SA (1″ full range; 4 ohm)
Question: Do both groups of speakers need to be the same ohms?
edit- This crossover here is at 300Hz using a 4 ohm resistor to get the W6 to 2 ohm (I think).
edit edit- Added a crossover design that’s not scientific, but could work. I don’t know the implications of having the impedance be basically nothing though.
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This topic was modified 11 months, 2 weeks ago by
. Reason: updated picture
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This topic was modified 11 months, 2 weeks ago by . Reason: additional edit
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This topic was modified 11 months, 2 weeks ago by . Reason: Refocus to impedance topic
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This topic was modified 11 months, 2 weeks ago by
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You’ll want to keep your impedance up so that you don’t throw your amp into protect mode.
Look at it this way, the W6 is a 80 dB driver while the W1’s are rated at 84 dB. And all are 4 ohm.
In your first pic (just raw drivers), the W6 is about 80-83 dB while the W1’s in parallel are jumping way up into the 97-ish dB range. Massive difference.Try this: instead of wiring the W1’s in parallel, wire them in series. Then see what their level is compared to the W6. Before adding in any actual crossover components, try adding a L-Pad and maybe a series resistor at the front of the W1’s. See how that pulls down the level. Then start with the crossover components. Now it’s padded down without dropping so low in impedance and you should be back closer to a 4 ohm load, keeping everything happy.
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Thanks TVOR-Ceasar. I tried messing with the L-Pad stuff without much luck. The resistor and putting the tweeters in series were excellent points. This is about the best I could come up with this evening. I’m still a bit dissatisfied with it– I’ll see what I can come up with later.
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Let me give you another tool to tuck into your belt – the website Omni Calculator. I use 2 of their pages mostly because I detest switching between all the capacitance values ( https://www.omnicalculator.com/conversion/capacitance-conversion ) and their crossover calculator ( https://www.omnicalculator.com/physics/crossover ), which shows you many different types and how they are put together. I’m still working on another design for Tonkers, and it’s proving to be somewhat difficult. Thanks to this calculator, I’m moving ahead with many more options. Hope this helps. If I find time, I’ll see what I can come up with for you.
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Oh yeah! I’ve been using that too. I’m not always very happy how it turns out. Some of the algorithms are definitely better than others. I’m going to see what else I can figure. As always, appreciate your contributions!
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Latest attempt. My main concern on this one is the impedance. The frequency response more or less looks like it should.
Intersection point of the two drivers at 230Hz. The part where it really starts falling off is about 40 Hz, which seems acceptable.
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I have decided to scrap the build. This plan sadly cannot achieve what I set out to accomplish in the space available. Thanks for the help and advice.
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Don’t scrap it. Put it on the back burner and circle back to it after you’ve learn more tricks.
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