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Kevin Kendrick
(@kevin-kendrick)
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01/11/2019 4:34 pm  

@nick7676

Since this applies to the design you have in mind, I've always been curious if there's more than one way to determine the amount of offset a stepped baffle would require to time align the drivers. The only way I'm aware of would be to mount the drivers to a flat test baffle (no offset, no step) and take measurements. You could then use the measurements to determine the Z-offset and incorporate that into the final cabinets. If others know of another way, would love to hear about it.

Good luck on your build Nick!


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Nick7676
(@nick7676)
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03/11/2019 10:44 pm  

I'm going to go ahead and just order two of the 10" RS270P-8A. 

Thanks again for everyone's thoughts and help.


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123Toid
(@123toid)
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04/11/2019 10:00 am  

@kevin-kendrick

You can guesstimate off previous experience with same sized drivers.  It is typically close, but there is no sure fire way that I know of, besides testing for z-offset.  

@nick7676 sorry I never got the simulations back to you.  My family just closed on our house on Monday (the 28th) and have been unpacking and moving.  I may have underestimated how much time that would take.  I am really excited about this build.  I love the design you came up with.  I sounds like it will look really sharp. 


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Kevin Kendrick
(@kevin-kendrick)
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04/11/2019 1:43 pm  

@123toid

Yea, I kinda figured taking measurements on a test baffle was the only way to do it accurately. Like you said, guessing based on previous experience with similar drivers would only get you in the neighborhood. I wouldn't want to design and build an enclosure based on a guess only to find out afterwards it was a bad guess, that would be a bummer. On the other hand though, I've never subscribed to needing to time align the drivers on the baffle, it's easy enough to do through the crossovers.


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Nick7676
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04/11/2019 1:58 pm  

I'm excited to start the build. And no worries about the simulations. Closing and moving is an exhausting event.


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Nick7676
(@nick7676)
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21/11/2019 10:16 pm  

I ended up making a change to my design. I ended up ordering two 8" RS woofers instead of the 10's. I was in the process of checking out when I realized the 10's were no longer on sale. I was able to model the 8's (rs225-8) to tune to 29-30Hz in winISD. I couldn't justify spending $200 for the 10's just to be able to tune 2-3Hz lower. 

I also picked up 2 sheets of 1" thick MDF.  I had to special order them from a local lumber yard.  Wow is that stuff crazy heavy lol.

I already have the mids (6" RS150P-8A). However, I'm debating on going with the 5" RS's.  The offaxis breakup on the 6" really starts to break up at 2,000Hz. The offaxis breakup on the 5" RS's starts breaking up around ~2,500Hz. This would allow me to not cross my RS tweeters down so low (I know this tweeter can be crossed down as low as 1,500 - 1,800Hz). But I keep thinking to myself if I'm building a 3-way speaker why cross over the drivers to their limits if you don't have to. It just seems the more overlap you have the better.  I would really appreciate anyone's thoughts or recommendations on a mid. And I'm not worried about the extra expense of using a diff mid because I saved $100 by going with two 8" RS drivers. Or should I stay with the 6" RS's I have?

Thanks

 

 


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123Toid
(@123toid)
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22/11/2019 1:59 am  

@nick7676

That stuff is heavy!  Have fun with it, lol.  I would personally stick with the 6" since already have them. You definitely can run the 5's if you want to. They would be more common with an 8" sub. Having said that, the 6" starts to break up after 2khz, but looks fairly decent to 3khz. When you crossover in that range, the tweeter will also be covering that area, so you may not have as much of an issue as you think. I would comfortably cross that over by 2.5khz and might even be able to push it to 3khz.  But if you want to cross it over higher, than definitely get the 5".  My advice would be to try what you have. If you're not happy, you can easily switch out the mid.


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