$3500 Speakers for $350? Klipsch KL-650 Inspiration
Honestly, I couldn't say with your setup. When the design changes, it changes how the drivers react with the crossover components. My guess would be, with the new alignment, the drivers are no longer in phase. So you are losing some data from 600hz to 4Khz. Or at least somewhere in that range. But honestly that is only a hypothetic guess.
The weather was kind to my project this weekend... the last coat of oil went on the cabinets!!! All that left to do, after a few days of drying, is to wax them and assemble the pieces. The fiberglass can go back, the xovers & drivers are waiting...
As mentioned previously, I've used alternate cabinets (re-purposed old boxes) and am expecting to need tweak the xover to correct any variation from your design. Toward that end, a mic & REW software has been attained (thank you for the rec). After reading chewbrocili's post, I'm curious to know: how would you check phasing between drivers? If I'm on the right track with the mic and software, no need to elaborate... but if there's something else to be looked at, please share 😉
Can anyone critique my crossover build?
@123Toid any issues?
just need to add the +- terminals.
Not knowing how big the board is... but the coil in the upper left (looking at the pic) might be better standing on end, in line with the center of the one on the right. Toid posted a link showing recommendations for coil placement and orientation. If you go to page 1 of this topic... 'check out the chart found here.' Great, the pasted link works!... but if not, go to pg 1.
Once it's inside the cabinet, how it looks is less important than it making sense to you while it's being assembled (IMO). I like those boards! They are a pleasure to work with, though a bit too flexible... at least the 5x7's from P.E. Is that what you've used?... and if so, what's your take on them?
Typically the top right inductor would be turned 90 degrees. However, it looks to be far enough apart, so it should be fine. If you wanted to reorient it you could, but then you would need to reorient both solid core inductors.
How are the new plans going? any updates? are the new drivers promising?
Btw, you are redesigning the fronts and the rears? or I can make the fronts with the existing plan and do the rears with the new design?
@grumpe1 it is the 5x7 and it’s my first board and I really like them.
thanks for the advice.
@123toid how’s this?
No issues with the bottom inductors? Different design so I wasn’t sure of the orientation. Thanks.
Looking at it now, I actually prefer the first way you had it. Iron core inductors can be confusing on their orientation. But just think of them as an Air corps inductor wrapped around the iron core. So they're orientation is just like the orange air core inductor.
Hey guys, do have to sand off the colour on the wires when I tie them together?
@123toid sorry I’m not good with the proper terminology, but I’ll try lol.
for example, when I tie the 0.22mh inductor to the 4ohm resistor, do I sand off the yellow coating on the inductor so it exposes bare wire or can I just solder it with the coating?
Are these connections ok?
I’ve removed the connections, stripped the paint off to expose bare wire and reconnected the wires.
Yeah should definitely be bare wire. And they're typically is a portion that's doesn't have any coating on it. You don't typically want to unwind or remove coating, as that's what gives it the value of the inductor. Removing a little bit isn't going to make a difference. But if you unwound it some and took some off, depending on how much, could make a difference in the final value of the inductor.
@123toid I didn’t unwind anything, just removed the paint off the wire, the inductors had some long pigtails on them.