$3500 Speakers for $350? Klipsch KL-650 Clones
I think the last time I was in an IKEA was 2019. Can't recall what the backs are made of, but I'm sure you'd want to stiffen /brace things up. Can't wait to see what you come up with.
if it fits, I can't see any reason you couldn't keep the doors closed when not in use. That's a cool idea.
Looking at the dimensions, it looks like each one would fit easily. Of course, it would be nice if they gave the exact internal size of each cube.
if I understood correctly, he would basically build the enclosure and stick it inside each cube. Then fill any space left over.
My only thought on the doors is vibration and swinging when open. If the hinges are stout enough and you can lock them open, then go for it.
That is a good point. There won't be much bass going to them, since they are typically crossed over by 80hz. However, that could definitely be an issue. Maybe some locking hinges wouldn't be a bad idea.
New to the forum here but have enjoyed your youtube videos for a while. I'm going to take on this build and was wondering if you can provide the DXF file for those with access to a cnc router?
@123toid thanks for the reply, if you have the file you did use (sketchup, or whatnot?) its possible I can convert, it would be a great help to have unless its proprietary which I get.
I like the concept; for my use though I would need the 90 degree horizontal because of my setup and I would need it to be shorter to fit in my custom wall unit.
I was thinking of roughly 24" wide x 8" tall by 16" deep ( I will do better math to get the right volume) with the horn mounted on top. I could do it without a baffle around the horn, or just enough height to be even with the top of the horn. Keeping the total height < 15.25".
My question is if I centered the woofers, and have a closer center to center distance between the woofers and horn, will that greatly mess anything up with the crossover? I know BSC will be different with the wider baffle ( I could actually take the baffle up to 30" wide, and fully fill up the opening) It would not be flush with the front of the cabinet, because I need to tilt the panel down to aim the speakers right. The wider baffle would also help kill of cavity resonance I have right now.
Also 1 0r 2 front ports with this setup since there is a ton of room. Thanks.
Better explains concept without CAD
If you keep the woofers and horn roughly the same spacing, it should be alright. Of course, no one really knows without building it, how much the affect will be. You really only need 1 port either way. Honestly, if you only need to lose 3/4", I would just move the port to the side or rear and shrink the cabinet by 3/4" Then make up that volume either by making it deeper or wider. You could easily do that, and not have to worry about a whole redesign.
@123toid Thanks for the reply. Actually I need to lose 1 3/4" since I need to flip it 90 degrees to get a 90 degree horizontal and 50 degree vertical pattern. My LR's are 9+ feet apart and my seating area is about 12 ft wide so I need that horizontal coverage. I may just build 1 to start to see how it works and decide from there. Fortunately, Parts Express is 30 minute drive from home, and about 5 minutes from my daughter's house, so real convenient to just pick stuff up.
Has anyone built these and done an impedance check on them yet? This is my sweep, still trying to learn DATs software, so if theres a setting off please LMK.
That is not the correct impedance chart for it. Did you run your woofers in parallel or series? It looks like they're wired in parallel.