Dayton RS100-4 build
Alright, I have an old project that I put together for my wife a few years back that isn't getting used any more. It's a little travel suitcase with a pair of Dayton RS100-4 in it connected to a Sure TA-2024 amp and a 12volt power supply. I also have a Lepai LP-2020A amp that I bought for something else that I can't remember that I can use as a power source if needed if that's better. It has it's own built in treble and bass adjustments and volume control which I like initially but we'll see. Oh, and I have a variable output power supply that I can use from a leftover project at work that puts out up to 13.5V. The only downside is it's rather large and I would have to figure out where to hide it.
For a sub I have a Stellar Labs sub which is a 10" 120W ported sub.
Here's my basic plan removed link These need to be as small as possible for maximum WAF. I plan to paint the cabinets to match the entertainment center they will be sitting on with the fronts to be a dark stained plywood just to break up the white and help "hide" the exposed speakers.
These will be 98% used for basic TV watching and occasionally movies. I am the only real audio nerd in my family so supreme audio quality will be lost on most. I want it to sound better than the TV and have a better balanced sound than just two speakers hooked up to a little amp. I know there are ways to boost output and improve detail on these little Dayton speakers and that the size of the box is also a factor.
To feed audio to the speakers/sub I will have to run a 1/8" mini cable to the amp and a Dayton audio Wavelink wireless transmitter for the sub.
Any thoughts on how to proceed with this budget build are greatly appreciated. I have attached pictures of the original project, supplies and where these speakers will eventually be living. Oh, and the entertainment center will be getting painted shortly.
First, it sounds like a good idea. I am a huge fan of re-purposing projects. I also get the audio nerd thing. In my family, I am by far the biggest critic of them. However, even my wife notices a difference when we put on a good movie. Having said that, what is your design goal for the RS100's? Are you planning on these sealed or ported? Are you going to any type of baffle step compensation or just relying on the the LP2020? The Lepai TI you can increase the voltage up to 24v for more power. You may want to double check with PE, because I haven't seen anything on the Lepai 2020a. If it is, I would probably at least to a 19v power supply like this.
First, good on ya for repurposing the previous build. Just makes me feel good to see stuff being put back to use.
Second, after a few more posts you'll be able to post links. Once that happens, go back and edit this post so we can see your plans.
I ran a couple calcs and the boxes are very similar for sealed and ported, at around 0.12-0.14 CuFt. for decent enough lower extension, approx 70-80 Hz area. A real nice spot to work with the Subwoofer you have.
I haven't looked at the amps yet, so I'll reserve thoughts on them for later.
Really, this could be a weekend build if you wanted. 2 weekends for a really nice finish. 🙂
The plan is to just have a small set of sealed speakers. I don't want to go the porting route just because of a time and cost factor in addition to the fact that I'm guessing it would also make them bigger.
I would like to try out the baffle step compensation and then fine tune them with the amp. I figure I should make them sound as good as possible to start with.
And I will keep in mind the bigger power source for more power. I may not do that initially because I honestly don't know where it would go at the moment.
I'm not even sure what link I posted. I don't really have an plans at the moment. Just a nice simple sealed box to house the speakers and the baffle step components. The main structure will be MDF with a plywood face. I'll start looking at box building plans to get to somewhere close to the volume you suggested unless what I'm mentioning now changes that(although it doesn't seem like it will).
I'll start working on plans and see what I can come up with. I would love to hear more about the BSC. I watched the videos you did but that is a whole new world to me. From what I understand you are basically using electrical components to provide a flatter response from the speakers so that you don't have crazy peaks at certain frequencies.
Thanks for the response and help guys.
Given the fact that these are smaller speakers any way, could I get away with using only 1/2" material for the main box? I think the front will still be 3/4" ply though. Using that I could make something like a 7" cube that would give a volume of around 0.125 which falls in line with what @TVOR-Casesar suggested.
I'm not home at the moment, otherwise I'd have pictures and good hard concrete data for you. On the other hand, I was able to rerun some of that information for a sealed enclosure, and found that with a box Q of approximately 0.6 (associated with tight bass rather than deep bass - think jazz where quickness is valued), a box size of around 0.15 will give an f3 of high 80s to low 90s.
It would be better to not use a cube in order to get high fidelity sound from a speaker. Cubes tend to have symmetrical resonances where non symmetrical boxes spread those resonances out and tend to cancel much better/have less resonance overall. That being said, a nice acoustic ratio box with 1/2" panels all way round, would be approximately 9" by 7-3/8" by 6". If you go with a 3/4 inch front baffle then the depth would be 6-1/4".
I wouldn't worry about using really thick panels on such a small box. The smaller the panel, the stiffer it is for it's thickness. Heck, the first set of speakers I built were 4" Radio Shack full range of about that size box, and I used 3/8" plywood. Loved those little rockers! (Never should have given them away...)