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Dameo182
(@dameo182)
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@123toid 

 

I looked at the response given on the data sheet of the sub I'm considering and it looks like it starts to break up around 1000hz so i was planning to cross around 500, if that sounds right, then if I'm doing it the way you showed me before then I'll take measurements of the tweeter, then the woofer then the sub, then one of them all playing together and match the up the responses in xsim, or omnimic, to get the z offsets of each one, and then design the crossover like normal. I hadn't realised that I could do it that way tbh, it's the first time I've done anything with a sub involved so I wasn't sure. Does that method seem ok? 

  • I have another question though, when I come to do the measurements, should I keep the distance at 16' or increase it as the sub has a bigger cone size? 
  • Should I take a near feild measurement of the sub in the cabinet as well to double check the crossover point? 
  • What's the reason that below 800hz might not match up so good?

Sorry for all the questions, I like to pick your brain when I can as I learn a lot 😃


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ElliottDesigns
(@elliottdesigns)
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@dameo182 Just saw your earlier post about using 10mm aluminium. It sounds cool and all, and it will certainly be stiff, just remember that metal rings, so maybe apply mass damping or something like noico butyl rubber sheets that are usually used for damping sheet metal in cars like car doors. (For the inside of course, unless you don't care about aesthetics, otherwise both in and out is probably best)

Elliott Dyson - Mechanical Engineering Student and 3D printing & Design Freelancer


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Dameo182
(@dameo182)
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@elliottdesigns 

I'm hoping I can design the cabinet well enough to not need that, but I know what your saying, it's going to be trial and error anyway so once it's built I'll be able to take measurements and adjust as needed. My main concerns are avoiding standing waves, and creating a speaker that's 'shouty' from the wide baffle that will be needed for the woofer. So to try and combat that I may design it to have a tapered baffle (thinner at the top, wider at the bottom) and also tilt the baffle backwards by about 5°. Thats all just ideas for now, I'll have a better idea once I get it drawn up , thanks for your input though, every bit of advice is appreciated 👍


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123Toid
(@123toid)
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@dameo182 

16 in would be fine. I would still do a Fairfield measurement as well. And by farfield I mean 3 ft. And that's after you design the crossover. You can also do one 10 ft back. The reason why you might want to do that is some people like their basd response hot. But if you make that flat at 16 in or even 3 ft, your bass might feel like it's lacking 10 ft away

 

https://www.youtube.com/123toid


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Dameo182
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@123toid 

Ok thank you for that, for the 10' measurement would I need to adjust the gate as I'll be measuring in room? If so whats the best time window to use for that? 


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