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Mumbles202
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@123toid

Thanks for the tip. I have to wait til Monday to try a lumber yard since Depot and Lowe's only have regular Birch Plywood. But hopefully by next weekend. 

 

Wanted to flush mount the driver but maybe I'll rear mount it and round the front lip. Don't know where I'd get a small section on 1/4" just for trim. 


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Mumbles202
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I plan to make the baffle where these attach 5". The site suggest a 1.4 Mh inductor. Would I be better off with a 1.5 inductor and a 8 ohm resistor or a some other combination? 

@123Toid, didn't realize you had Voxel plans with front mount and a slot. Should be picking them up later. The 1/2" Baltic Birch would be fine for that correct? 


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Mumbles202
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I'm thinking of possibly doing them in Poplar instead of the pine or Baltic Birch. That make for a good option?

Doing a little reading and wonder if I would still need the baffle step correction if I was rear mounting the drivers? Don't love the idea as once they're in the box I don't have access in the event of an issue, but was curious. Would router the mounting location to make it more of a flange.

 


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123Toid
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@mumbles202

You will need a baffle step correction circuit no matter how you mount it. You can use poplar, but that's still a pretty soft wood, so you still would probably need to line it. You could use Hickory which is pretty inexpensive. I've never used Poplar, so this is just an assumption based off it's hardness. 

https://www.youtube.com/123toid


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TVOR-Ceasar
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Poplar is known as "the softest of the hardwoods." It can be compared to, say, white pine or whatever the standard firring strips are made of. It is pretty soft. I have some I used for trim in my bathroom. It accepts paint very well (the grain is quite porous) but the edges are prone to dings, dents, and chunks. The finish is quite smooth, though. 

Hmm, I wonder if making a composite of some really nice hardwood outside and poplar inside would be worth it? Strength of the hardwoods and dampening of the poplar....??? Sounds like an experiment for another day. 

That's most of what I know about poplar, other than they can get really, really big and tall.

Could you build it out of poplar? Yeah, especially if the cross-section isn't that wide. If the max width of the board doesn't get too big, it'll probably be stiff enough. Especially if you aren't worried about punching the bass out of those cabs.

-Charlie
https://www.youtube.com/user/TheTrueVoiceOfReason


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Mumbles202
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Thanks for the replies. At this point I've ruled out the poplar. I'm deciding between mdf box with oak front baffle or all Baltic Birch. The first is far easier to get access to but looking for best approach to join the mdf to the oak as I was thinking of putting 1/2" oak over the 1/2" mdf front panel. Either flush mounting the PS95 on the oak baffle or rear mounting to the oak with flared opening. 


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123Toid
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@mumbles202

Oak can just glue directly to MDF.  If you are afraid of any air leaking, you can use liquid nails, but just regular titebond II glue would work just fine.  

https://www.youtube.com/123toid


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Mumbles202
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Thanks for the feedback.  Took a bit of a hiatus.  Question: I lucked into a pair of boxes that I can use to make enclosures for these 2 speakers until the spring when I'll have a little more time.  Boxes are little over-sized so I can either use 1/4" or 1/2" mdf to bring the volumes down to .116 or .108 and then run them as ported enclosures for now.  I've modeled them both in WinISD, but to be honest I'm not sure what I'm looking for in terms of a good graph.  Which of the 2 volumes would be better? For the first I was looking at 1"x3" circular vent and the 2nd a 1"x3.5" vent.


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123Toid
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If we are talking about tuning frequency, the 3" would be better.  However, if I were you I would try a larger diameter port if you can fit it.

https://www.youtube.com/123toid


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Mumbles202
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@123toid

I can definitely fit a larger diameter port if required.

 


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Mumbles202
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What's the recommended minimum distance between the end of the port and the adjoining wall? If I do a straight port I'd have about .75" from the end of the port to the rear wall of the box.


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ImCoKeMaN
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@mumbles202

I'm not the expert, but my understanding is that you want at least one port diameter between the end of the port and a wall.

 

Disclaimer: I've been in the forum long enough to know a couple things, but have yet to actually do a speaker build myself =)


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123Toid
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@imcokeman

That's correct. So if it's a 1" port, you'll want one inch space between the end of the port and the baffle. 

 

https://www.youtube.com/123toid


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ImCoKeMaN
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internship3

Disclaimer: I've been in the forum long enough to know a couple things, but have yet to actually do a speaker build myself =)


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Mumbles202
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Posted by: @imcokeman

@mumbles202

I'm not the expert, but my understanding is that you want at least one port diameter between the end of the port and a wall.

 

Ok thanks. Guess I'll grab a pair of PVC elbows and make it work. Now the joy of measuring the length of the center of the elbow.


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