My first DIY speaker help me fix them
These are my first speakers built ever. I just watched a few videos and decided I would put something together. I did not really do any research on drivers or crossovers or anything when I put them together. I kinda just went on parts express and picked up what I thought would sound cool lol. I bought some half inch mdf and started cutting. The inside dia is 6"x8"x6", the driver is a Dayton PC83-8 and the tweeter is a TD20F-4. The crossover I just bought this one 2 way crossover because I knew I needed something 2 way. Now they sound okay at low volume lol but once you give it anymore volume the highs are very bright and fatiguing. And the bass is non existent which I figured would kinda be like that since this driver does not go very low but I thought it would be a little better. So if you guys could help me with coming up with a better crossover, or maybe I should put a port into the box or something to make them sound better that would be great.
Looking at the PC83-8, it is actually a pretty good driver, spec-wise.
Sealed box (yours is 0.17 cu.ft.) starts it dropping at around 200 Hz, gently rolling of to a -3dB of approximately 95 Hz.
If you were to keep that box and add a 1" port of around 2-7/8" L, it calcs down to somewhere around 58 Hz Fb and a F3 of somewhere around 49 Hz. It'd be a fair chance you'll like it better ported.
Your tweeter is a 4 ohm unit with a higher sensitivity, so adding a resistor to pad it down will help tame it. I don't have the time tonight to check it out, but maybe tomorrow.
If you go here: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/filedata/fetch?id=1134633 and find the frequency listed for the crossover itself (3500-4000 @ 8 ohm, depending on where you read), you'll see that at 4 ohms it is crossing over quite a bit higher (between 6500-8500, probably around 7000+-). That, combined with the higher SPL rating is why it feels that way. Like I said above, pad it down and you'll be much happier.
Try adding a 4 ohm resistor between the x-over tweeter output and the tweeter. That seems to level it off nicely in XSim. More (or less) might be necessary, since the values of the compnents aren't marked, and I really didn't trace the board out to see how it was all connected. It's at least a start. You can fine tune it by ear to suit your taste.
You could also try "flipping" the tweeter connections; instead of + to + and -to -, try + to - and - to +. It all depends on which way you like it.
I think the issue with that driver isn't that it can't extend low, but that it exceeds xmax, very fast. Did you take a look at cone excursion via wattage? Or max wattage? I think you will be surprised that it hits max excursion really fast. Which really limits it's low end output. I used this in the a few builds and I was disappointed with it's low end output. I think these really are better suited for a 2.1 style build.
Does the wattage of the resistor matter? I am powering the speakers with the little smsl sa100.
I found some 1”id port tubes I had that were 4” long. I cut it down to 2 7/8” and stuck it in. Waiting on some resistors. Should I put any padding inside?
Sorry about the delay, I've been overly busy with other things this weekend.
For your resistor, since the tweeter is only 20W, you don't really need any more than that. You can probably get away with a 10W or a 5W, but I'd go with at least a 10W.
Padding can't hurt, just make sure it doesn't cover the back of the PC83 or the port opening.