Audi A5 - Subwoofer Upgrade
If you check this vid mate I connected 1 voice coil directly to the source signal cables (The cables that went to the last subwoofer)
It can power the subwoofer kind of low but surely enough there for a signal?
Could I check the signal with a multimeter somehow?
I found a guy on this forum https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/370286-B8-Aftermarket-Sound-System-Pictures
"As for wiring, I used the existing sub wiring (stock sub is disabled), and used a PAC line-level driver to convert to RCA, then powering the sub with an Alpine PDX 1.600 and have a PAC volume control. (The little knob on the console)"
Do I need this device? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stereo-Converter-Subwoofer-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B07S8TGT37/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=line+level+converter&qid=1589153200&refinements=p_76%3A419158031&rnid=419157031&rps=1&sr=8-1
Also found this guy mentioning this
"Another issue could be your crossover settings. The Audi subwoofer wire you tapped into and already has been filtered as to send a narrow range of low frequencies to the factory sub. Play around with the amps imput level compensation knob so you never see the imputs clipping. Second, set the amps crossover so the subsonic filter sits around 40hz and the low pass (which prevents your sub from becoming a mid range speaker) at probably 60-70hz. If you were running a 12" sub, i'd recommend starting off at 30hz on the sub x-over and on the low-pass, around 60hz. Setting the subsonic filter too low and the low pass too high will make the amp run super hot, sound like crap, and not have much punch.
Also, I'm assuming you have the positive wire coming from your sub plugged into the far right terminal and the negative in the far left terminal, leaving the two spots in the middle open? If you plugged it in any other way, your sub will run in either a very weak 4ohm.... or worse, 8ohm if you used the far right positive and the right negative."
I think the Stock sub was rounded off from certain frequency's to avoid distortion.
god this is difficult!
You need a dsp with de equalization capability to properly fix the factory signal
your link didn’t work.
Sorry I am a little late to the party. Something does not sound right at all. There might be an issue with the new amplifier. Did your old amplifier have this issue? Have you disabled the factory amplifier for the subwoofer? I am trying to understand exactly how you wired it up.
Best I can tell he tapped into the factory sub and is getting a limited signal because of the factory crossover Common problem with a lot of late model vehicles. A audiocontrol lci with accubass can help restore the signal or a dsp that has de-equalization capabilities.
I am not sure exactly what’s going on seems like some new equipment has made its way in than originally discussed and some of the post are a little hard to decipher so a bit of a guess but one of the last post says “the subwoofer wire you tapped into has already been filtered”.