Hi, from England
Hello everyone! I am a 17-year-old, with a crazy vast knowledge and experience of speakers and electronics for my age. It is my passion (as I am sure it is most of your's too).
I found my way here from watching videos on KirbyMeetsAudio. From one of the videos he mentioned 123Toid and how he has great tutorials for crossover software (so useful!). I am also loving the other videos and I am excited about a driver comparison between Dayton Esoteric, Wavcor and other similar companies (for the tweeter and mid sub). He mentioned it in a video about a month ago. I want to see his ideas on this as I am joining a maker space and I am going to be making my own speakers (personal use I am afraid), so I really need his opinion on drivers so I can choose them for speaker enclosure calculations.
I digress, I am looking forward to speaking with you guys and talking about speakers.
Welcome to the club in behalf of everyone. Its nice to see a younger member having such a lovely compassion for a peaceful hobby and not playing mind altering stupid video games. and just wasting time.
Its ALL about having fun.
That is so kind of you, thanks.
I absolutely love designing and before getting into this stuff I got into 3D printing where I got a build kit for the Prusa Mk3S and that led onto this interest of building the hi-fi I have always wanted. I considered studying to become a design engineer for acoustic engineering at one point but I can't see a good progression to get into so I am working towards going to uni to do Automotive engineering instead. To continue my love of hi-fi though I am keeping it as a hobby. I think it is best this way anyway.
I have now designed and built 3 stereo class-d amps that I am going to use to power a set of small satellites and passive sub that my parents gave me when their home theatre in a box broke. Once I have enough money to get the drivers I need I will design and build speakers to replace the pretty rubbish ones I currently have.
If you are interested I am using a TDA7498E chipset and I have only managed to measure the peak power but it is 160W peak per channel. From my knowledge of building a couple PC's I also got some cooling set up for the chips so I can reach this power level, I am using a 36V 9A power supply for each of the three stereo amps. Why all of the big power supplies and over the top power you may ask? I'm kinda trying to save money long term for once I have built those speakers.
Just out of interest, how new are you to this hobby, and what project are you working on at the moment (if any)? 😀
Hello my young and talented friend. I was very busy this weekend and just replying now.
I could actually use your advice in trying to build ICEpower amps, and maybe... you can point me in the right direction how to assemble them. I have all the pages, and parts, but can use an advise. You may like the source I am uising to buy these parts. I can make your time worthwhile as well, and help you built WAY and TOTALLY better cables for your system, that will leave expensive designers versions in the dust and are very affordable....., and yes even with your limited budget.
If you like use my email to keep up firstname.lastname@example.org
All the best.
XD, welcome to the hobby. In my opinion now is a good time in speaker buildings history. 20 years ago when I started there was just a few books on the topic and it was more trial and error. Now there's powerful software and a wealth of knowledge on the net.
I think so too! What do you think about my driver choice:
Wavecor TW030WA05/06 (not sure whether to go for 5 or 6 yet). The ferrofluid of 6 will dry out eventually but it has a smoother and more linear impedance response.
I am using the WA05 because I want to make a surround system out of bookshelves and I wanted it to be suited to be used in satellites, so with a sub when I make one.
I haven't used any wavecor drivers but the specs looks good. The tweeter has a nice low resonant frequency which will help with the crossover design.
Yeah, it did actually, it is just a shame about the peak at the top end of the tweeter, maybe I can roll it off.
Peak at the top end? Is the peak a general upslope? If so we can fix that fairly easily.
Thanks for the reply, it is more like a triangular peak that goes up +5db ish at around 18/19khz and drops back down to flat at 20khz. Off axis it seems to flatten out anyway but I am not sure I want that as I am going to eventually build enough for an atmos setup where they need to point towards you. I dont know whether it will be too bad or not because our sensitivity to hearing decreases around there anyway. So I just dont know. But here are the graphs: https://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/specs/298-1108-1110-1112-1114--wavecor-tw030wa05-06-07-08-specifications.pdf
Also, what do you think of the drivers I chose? I oonly ask because you tested a few about 4 months ago. Also, could I ask your opinion about the crossover I designed? I'll post it later today when not so busy. Thank you Toid.
I used the passive crossover designer 2.0 excel spreadsheet to calculate my crossover and frequency response as you know. I then used WinISD to show me the frequency response of a sealed enclosure with my woofer inside.
You wouldn't guess it! With the size I had planned out in CAD beforehand I calculated the volume. It was around 15L, I then took away the volume for the size of the drivers and I got a QTC of precisely 0.707 in WinISD that is precisely what I was aiming for.
Anyway, with the two frequency response graphs, I added them together and created a 31 band EQ to test whether I liked the sound. I tested this with a pair of very flat response headphones.
I loved the extra bit of highs and the tiny bump up at around 1-1.5khz made the vocals sound more natural in music (somehow??)
The program I used for EQ was Equaliser APO, not the best looking but very accurate and doesn't add other effects as the other programs do. It is very loyal to what you want. 😉
There is a screenshot of what I did in the program attached.
The passive crossover design in excel was doing some weird scaling things due to my 4k screen resolution so you'll just have to ignore the giant buttons and so on.
Also I do not need to worry about the bass down to 80hz because my room amplifies around that frequency anyway. The crossover for the sub will be set to 80hz for lower frequencies. 🙂
I think I might keep this equalisation set on my headphones permanently; bar removing the bass of course. It seems to have fixed the soundstage???