DINAS + Arylic Up2Stream
Hey guys! I’m a DIY newbie who has always admired from afar, but I’ve found a project tool cool for me to not try.
I want to build a DINAS with an Arylic Up2Stream WiFi Audio Receiver Module hardwired inside it. My parents outside speaker (a dinky CD player), quit working after 5 years and I want to give them an upgrade. The speaker will be outdoors, but completely covered, so I’m not concerned with the elements getting to it. I want the Up2Stream module to be the main/only input option for the speaker; whenever you to the speaker on, the WiFi module turns in as well.
Nick has been awesome in letting me know if this is theoretically possible. I have bought the build plans for the DINAS, I just need to know where to solder the ground and 5 volt input into the WiFi module from the DINAS/Lepai amp (assuming I’ll need a step down converter). Then I’ll need to know where to solder the left, right, and ground audio outputs from the WiFi module back into the DINAS/Lepai amp.
Again, I’m a first-time newbie, so assume I know nothing haha! But if anyone can help me out with helping locate the correct pads to solder to, as well as any additional components I’ll need, that would be awesome! Excited to build this and show y’all!
Thanks! A couple questions as I'm making preparations.
1.) Will I need any type of ground loop isolator since the amp and Wifi module will be sharing the same ground?
2.) Where will I solder the WPS (Reset WiFi) wire?
Last, on your Dinas Arylic video, right around the 2 minute more, the audio unsyncs from the video and seems to start over at the beginning. However, I believe everything you were saying at that point is actually covered in your 5 volt usb step down video. Just wanted to give you a heads up.
I am working on fixing the video, I noticed it as well, but am having trouble pinpointing what is going on. I'll have it fixed for you and will let you know when it is. Now to answer your questions as best as I can.
1. I can't say for sure, since I haven't tried it, but probably. Of course you can try it without and go from there.
2. I personally wouldn't use the WPS button. It is unnecessary. You can easily hook up to it manually to your router the first time. You will only need that the first time you set it to the network. And you will never use it again unless you put it on a new network. Of course, it is just as easy to do it manually. It is no different than connecting your phone to wifi manually (ie putting in the password). Of course, this is coming from the guy who doesn't use WPS. Seriously though, you will just be adding anothe hole, where air could potentially escape. SO you would want to be really thoughtful on how to seal that to keep the air pressure in the box. For me, it isn't worth it.
Most of my parts are here! I'm just waiting on the flat pack, which should arrive tomorrow. I'm going over my final prep, and I wanted to make sure my plans are correct. Could you take a look at the "diagram" I have attached and let me know if my solder points are right?
Also, I went ahead and bought a step down converter. <a href=" removed link ;psc=1"> removed link ;psc=1
Do you see any reason why this one wouldn't work?
Woo Hoo! I can't wait to see it complete! I have never used that kind of step down. As long as it can handle the current, I don't see why it wouldn't work. I redid your drawing, because I saw a few things awry. First, you hook up both the tweeter and the mid to one speaker out, either the left or right. Since you aren't doing a stereo pair, you will want both of your signal wires going to either the left or the right whichever you plug the speaker up to. Also, I just drew a blue circle around the power on the board. They were a little short, so I just wanted to make sure you knew where they were going.
Ok I updated my diagram to show how the speakers would be hooked up as well. I reversed the polarity in the tweeter and subwoofer as the DINAS build plan instructed, and left the 4" mid cone normal. In the build plan, it appears, he used only the LEFT speaker outs, so that's what I'm using. With that in mind, I made the corrections instructed for the left and right outs from the Arylic, going into only the left input of the Lepai amp. Am I understanding that all 3 drivers (tweeter, mid-cone, subwoofer) will all go to the positive / negative of the Lepai amp's left outputs? I know the tweeter and mid-cone do, but does the subwoofer as well?
@valonm finished his diners. And they are gorgeous hey. I thought I'd also post what he said about them. Feel free to correct me valon.