• DINAS big brother(s)

  DINAS big brother(s)

  Posted by zqrilsvof on April 17, 2021 at 9:20 pm

  So, I’m at a crossroads. I will put the 5.1 system on the back burner. Instead, I’m trying to finalize my driver selection. Since DINAS are a powered speaker, I am planning on doing the same.

  I have two sets of drivers selected for the bookshelves. They will have DSP built in and will have where you can adjust the corrections through the WONDOM app. So, without further ado, the driver lists:

  Budget friendly DINAS “Bro”

  1) Savard RAP 6.5″ (sub)
  2) Dayton Audio RS150P-8A
  3) Peerless by Tymphany NE19VST-04

  DINAS roided out “Bro”

  1) Savard Hi-Q 6.5″ (or Sundown Audio SA6.5 which is currently about the same price as the Hi-Q, give or take $10)
  2) Tang Band W6-1721
  3) Peerless by Tymphany DA25TX00-08

  Now, both versions will be powered by the Wondom JAB5 4x100W amplifier with bluetooth and DSP built in.
  https://store.sure-electronics.com/product/756

  And the Power Supply is the LRS-350-36 (36V)
  https://power-nex.com/product/lrs-350/

  After they release the ISP5 (currently ISP1 and ISP3 are for sale, ISP5 expected end of the month), I plan on putting one per speaker. Why? Because in their infinite wisdom, even though they have bluetooth already on the amplifier, you still need this to program it with the Sigma program or to use their app. Why would you want to use their app when you can calibrate it before calling it good? So that you can do room correction in the future while using REW to measure the reflections, allowing for this to be done IN SPEAKER, meaning no matter which room you put this in, you can customize the EQ on the speaker to sound great in the room, instead of just making a flat response and hoping for the best.

  

  So instead of having the control knobs on the back with a standard plate amp, you will have more fine control through a phone app (although no automated process for an algorithm to do it for you; sorry).

  It also means you have to setup for two USB cables to be connected on the back. And I still plan on buying a cheap aluminum plate, an aluminum heatsink to screw onto the plate, then soldering small blocks to the aluminum plate over the components that need a heatsink (this is subject to change, but would be to replace the fans on the power supply and the amp; either that or I may do something else; still planning).

  The DSP in the amp will act as an active crossover for the three speakers and two of the 100W channels are able to be bridged, meaning you can feed 100W to the woofer and tweeter each, then 200W to the sub.

  As to price, you would be looking at about $600 for a pair of the budget friendly set (price still in flux during planning), while the pair for the Tang Band roided build would be closer to $850 or so for a pair (I’m building 2 pair, one for my parents and one for myself).

  I would love thoughts on this build.

  Specifically:
  1) Do you think (even with the DSP present) that the sound quality of the Tang Band speakers and the distortion levels are improved enough to justify the additional price?

  2) Is it worth paying the extra for the DA25TX00-08 because they are more sensitive (so you would use less wattage) which also would allow for more attenuation if needed in the high end with the DSP EQ?

  3) Would the extra $30 on the sub give you less distortion or smoother bass (I’m leaning toward the $100 subs on this one, but would like to hear from other’s that know more)?

  4) Is the APP worth the money to buy the programmer for each and every speaker? Or just buy one, calibrate the speaker with the calibrated microphone once (or every so often if you feel the response has changed), and call it good? You could just hook it up to a laptop in the same room, after all (requires mounting a plug to accept the plug between the boards on the backplate, instead of mounting just two USB ports to extend to the plugs for each board; unless using an easily removed backplate to access the connector on the amp), and correct in the final spot it will be in.

  5) is there anything I am not seeing in this build? Any cool ideas to build on from what I just laid out?

  6) Which of these two builds (or a Frankenstein of the suggested drivers, or another driver or tweeter you want me to consider) would you want to own more? Which of these two builds would you buy?

  Remember, these are basically studio monitors on how loud they will be and most of the frequency coverage.

  zqrilsvof replied 2 years, 5 months ago 1 Member · 0 Replies
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