Blog Forums DIY Speakers and Subwoofers How to Make a Subwoofer End Table

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    • #11888
      123toid
      Keymaster

      Let’s be honest with Audio there is typically a certain amount of WAF (wife acceptance factor) that needs to be considered.  And typically subwoofers are the least accepted component of a home theater or stereo.  They are just ugly boxes that sit in the corner and make loud booms aka bass.  But what if we could take that same subwoofer and make it not only a central part of your home theater, but also a central part of your home décor?  That is exactly, what I choose to do.  But if you are going to do this, you might as well go with an even bigger subwoofer?  So why not use a 15″ that can easily be hidden?  While we’re at it, we” pick up a few ports and a 250w plate amplifier.  It might not sound like much, power but this plate amplifier can actually power two of these 15″ subwoofers way past reference level (more on why that is a little later).  In fact, for the components to build two 15″ end table subs, it would cost around $500. Just want one, you could do it for around $350.

      Parts Used: 

      15″ woofer: https://bit.ly/pn395-8

      250w Plate Amplifier: http://bit.ly/30UimHx

      2 Ports: http://bit.ly/4inport

       

      Why Use PA Woofers:

      Did you know the movie theater you go to, is using PA drivers.  So why aren’t you? Most people aren’t used to using PA woofers, instead they are used to what is commonly referred to as home theater subwoofers.  Let’s talk a little bit about why these are commonly used.  These typically have high excursion, very low sensitivity and can be ported fairly low. The main advantage though, is it’s box size.  This is due to Hoffman’s Law.  Without going into too much detail, Hoffman’s law states that a drivers sensitivity, low bass extension and small box size are directly related.  And you can only have two of these.  Since many people don’t want huge ugly boxes, they choose a low sensitivity driver (ie needs more power to push it) and a small box.  Since, we are hiding this in plain sight, we can choose a high sensitivity driver (ie need a lot less power to push it), but have a larger box, which helps us still get low bass extension.  With that in mind, let’s take a look at the design.

       

      Design Process:

      When I got these woofers in for a PA, build, one of them was damaged,  No issues though, PE sent me a replacement.  But while I waited, I decided to see what this could do as a subwoofer.  I was really surprised at how well it modeled with an EBS alignment. 

      An EBS alignment stands for Extended Bass Alignment.  For this I choose a -3 EBS in about a 4 cubic foot enclosure.  In WinISD, this extends your bass response down to it’s lowest frequency of it’s F3.  Most people are used to seeing a ChevyChev alignment, which is flat.  The EBS response has a slight downward slope to it’s F3 of about 32hz (with low pass). Take a look at the graph, with a 100hz high pass (4th order) with only 1 watt of power using a typical 1 meter response. 

      By tuning it this way, we do loose a little sensitivity, but with a high efficiency driver like this, it doesn’t really matter.  You will still should be able to fill your room with bass.  As you can see 1 meter away we are getting over 120dB with only 120w.  This is important, as this is an 8ohm woofer, so that is max the 250w amplifier will give that woofer.  It’s not until you get to 4 meters away that it hits 100db on 120w. 

       Port noise at 120w stays within 17 m/s which is exactly what we want.

      Another important thing to look at is cone excursion.  At first, it looks like it will be an issue, but with the 20hz high pass that is built into the amplifier, you have no issues there. 

       

      Design Flaws:

      No subwoofer build is without it’s flaws.  SO let’s talk about what these might be.  Since this is an EBS alignment, you may end up crossing your subwoofer over a little sooner in order to maintain a flat response in the crossover region.  Without that, it might raise that area up a few dB.  For most this won’t be an issue, but it is worth mentioning. So if you typically cross your subwoofer over at 120hz, you may end up crossing this over at 100hz.

      Some might not thing 32hz F3 is low enough.  They may want to get to that magical 20hz.  Which I completely understand.  Keep in mind that if you are used to commercial subwoofer, this is probably pretty similar tuning to a lot of commercial subwoofer.  With this in mind, let’s talk about my real world performance.

      Real World Performance: 

      This is my performance, I cannot tell you how your room will or will not respond to the subwoofer. In room, it is really hard to say what type of response you will get. For me, in room, I got an F3 of 22hz. Or course that is with decent room placement and the cheap DSP-LF to help get the most out of my sub. Which I would recommend for any subwoofer.  It helps fine tune your subwoofer to your specific room.

      This thing is pretty awesome though.  It can shake the entire house.  It is a pretty cool feeling having your couch shake 15′ away from the subwoofer.  It is also a very clean response, without much motor noise.  It also doesn’t need much excursion, which helps keep down the distortion.

      What have People Thought about it?

      My mom, said she really loved my new end table.  Should I tell her the secrets it hides?

      My sister said there is no need for a back massage anymore.  She will just come over and watch a movie.







      Like these Plans?

      Tip the Designer – this helps get more free plans to you


    • #11889
      123toid
      Keymaster

      Build Plans

       

      Parts Used:

      15″ woofer: https://bit.ly/pn395-8

      250w Plate Amplifier: http://bit.ly/30UimHx

      2 Ports: http://bit.ly/4inport

      1/4″ T Nuts and bolts: https://bit.ly/33vD181

       

      Box Dimensions:

      This box uses 3/4″ material. The dimensions can change a little to fit your space, but make sure you can fit everything.  Here are the dimensions I used. This is for the box only, not counting top or feet.

      Height: 17.5″

      Width 21″

      Depth 25″

       

      Cut List:

      This a sample cut list from a piece of 4′ x 8′ stock.

      (2) Top and Bottom: 25″x21″

      (2) Front and Rear: 21″x16″

      (2) Sides: 16″x21.5″

       

      Ports:

      For this I am using two 4″ precision ports for each subwoofer built. The ports come as 5 different pieces.  One long piece, two flared ends and two connecting pieces.  Take the long piece and cut it down to 10″ on each port.  You you will want to glue to ports together.  You will probably need to do this in the enclosure.  The pieces may not fit through your port opening, so it is best to glue them in the port hole. For this, I use CA glue or gorilla glue.  I love the CA glue, because it is so fast (if using the activator). Just make sure your parts are lined up before hand, as you only get one shot if you use that activator.  You will need to screw these in.  You will need four #6 screws.  You can pick up a pack at PE or just buy what you need at your local hardware store.  I like to go to Ace Hardware, as you can buy individual screws.

       

      Top:

      The top can be anything you want. But you will typically want it to stick over the edge at least 3/4″ to 1″ on each side – personal choice.  You can also make it the top of your box if you want it to be shorter.  Just make sure you account for this in your dimensions.  I used 3/4″ Oak that I picked up from my local lumber store. I bought 1 piece of 1×12.  Lumber bought is typically bought at common size and not actual size.  The actual size of this lumber was 3/4″ x 11.25″.  This meant I did not have to cut the width down.  Glued together, was 22.5″ which left 3/4″ overhang on each side. I just need to cut the board into two 26.5″ in length.  Then glued these together. 

       

      Feet:

      The feet can be any shape you want.  I just made a simple design and cut it out on the cnc.  But you could easily use a wooden dowel or even buy legs at your local hardware store.  Mine are approximately 3″ tall.  If you wanted to shorten your feet you should be able to.  The max excursion of that woofer is only about 1/4″ and the woofer sits out 3/4″.  So you could possibly shrink it to about 2″ although I have never tried it, so you would be taking a risk.

       

      Braces:

      Yes you should brace the box.  The best thing to do is get the ports installed and then cut some scarp 3/4″ straight pieces and install them in places that will not get in the want of the ports, sub or amplifier.  You can also use a 3/4″ wooden dowel if you want.  Just place these both horizontally and vertically where you can.  Make sure to leave enough room for 

       

      Dampening Material:

      This can be used in a subwoofer.  You can buy some from PE or just go to your local Walmart and pick up an foam topper for a mattress.  Just line the walls with it and use staples or spray glue to keep it in place. 

       

      External Design:

      This is also personal choice.  I went ahead and just used a 2′ x 4′ piece of 1/4″ material and cut the pieces to size on each side.  The width I cut to 3.5″.  Keep in mind, if you do this, that once you add the ones to the sides or front, you will be gaining 1/2″ which will need to be accounted for.  So if you do what I did, cut all the sides or front. and glue and nail them on. Then cut the sides  or front, whatever is left.  

       

      Like these Plans?

      Tip the Designer – this helps get more free plans to you


    • #11900
      shrub0
      Member

      I enjoyed the video. Can you share the inputs to Winisd so I can run a simulation? Thanks.

    • #11902
      123toid
      Keymaster

      @shrub0

      I just put it up above.  Hopefully this helps.  If not, let me know what you would like. 


    • #11907
      kanaaudio
      Participant

      What a great idea, wow! Thanks for sharing!

    • #13229
      dfresh27
      Participant

      Would like to take this idea to the outside on my patio. That being said, what sub would work in the outdoor elements. I havent researched yet but plan on using some sort of exterior plywood.  Can this be adapted to a sealed box?  The ports seem like an invitation for the elements and critters. I would power the sub from an old amp I have in the garage.  Still new to this all but trying to soak it in…..

      Thanks

    • #13231
      123toid
      Keymaster

      @dfresh27

      You could adapt this exact one to the outdoors.  I would double check with Parts express to see how the paper cone would hold up to the outdoor elements.  It might be a good idea to put some type of mesh/screen over it to protect it from bug and rain.  I would consider using a screen door material.

      For outdoors you really do not want sealed.  Sealed does well is an environment that can get you a lot of room/cabin gain to help with the low end.  Without that you would end up needing to eq it.  THs wouldn’t be a problem, but once you start eqing it you cut down on the amount of power the sub can use.  Meaning it wouldn’t go as loud.  And with no room gain, well you need it to go louder.

      With all this in mind, I would go ported and use a mesh screen over the ports inside the box) for and maybe just over the whole bottom to help protect the woofer. 


    • #15298
      t968rs
      Member

      @shrub0

      I am wondering if I am, perhaps, inputting the PN395-8 specs in wrong. I am not getting the curves that Toid is getting.

       

    • #15301
      Elliott
      Participant

      @t968rs it could be that the driver specs have changed (or that the ones provided by the manufacturer are wrong, which is rare but sometimes happens. I’m pretty sure Nick measured the driver himself). I’ll pop it in winISD myself in a bit and see what it comes out with. I’ll post it when I have.

      Edit: for clarity


      Elliott Dyson – Elliott Designs (YouTube) – 3rd year MENG Student
    • #15322
      t968rs
      Member

      Actually, the driver input schema in WinISD seems a little order-dependent. I searched around a bit to find sources that demonstrate the correct order. Once I re-saved the driver, I go the expected response. 

    • #15326
      Elliott
      Participant

      @t968rs You are right, it very much is, and hence why I was going to check it. Nick (123Toid) has a tutorial on winISD, in which he actually goes through the order in which the information needs to be entered!


      Elliott Dyson – Elliott Designs (YouTube) – 3rd year MENG Student
    • #15329
      123toid
      Keymaster

      @t968rs Something definitely doesn’t look right.  Did you get a data integrity error?  Also did you check to make sure the correct units were selected?  I have a feeling  they were not.  Here is the video that might help out.  If you still are getting the wrong data let me know.

       


    • #22671
      nickd
      Participant

      Instead of the Dayton PA 15″, what about a Dayton Ultimax 15″? How much more amp would I need for this Subwoofer End table? (or would you still recommend sticking with the PA woofer?)

      • #22674
        123toid
        Keymaster

        You could definitely do that. In fact it has been done before using the mini marty design. I tried finding it again, but couldn’t come across the build log. You can use a plate amplifier like this Dayton. However, most people use a PA amplifier like the NX3000D for one or the NX6000D if you ever plan to add a second subwoofer. One thing to note, is that the Behringer fans are very loud and will need to be replaced with a Noctua Fan. This is not very hard and we could help walk you through it. I actually own a 600 myself, but I personally do not use it. I like my Crown XTi-2002. It seems to be more dynamic especially in the low frequencies (it is a class A/B compared to a class D). However, it is going to cost you more. One other quick note, the Behringer’s will not do rated power. or anywhere close really. Big D tested their series before this and their current series also does not test up to spec. Just keep that in mind.

        https://youtu.be/73Z2fNcGGDI


    • #22679
      nickd
      Participant

      So doing this end table build with a 15″ Ultimax would require the 1000w Dayton or NX3000? Maybe I’ll stick to the PA 15″ that only needs a 250w Dayton amp 😉

      • #22699
        123toid
        Keymaster

        Nick I am so sorry, I was thinking the 18″, since that is what most people build. I completely overlooked the fact you said 15. Having said that, I would still recommend using the same plate amplifier, but if just running one, you could get away with the inuke 1000.

        But yes, the Ultimax are pretty power hungry. So if you want to get the most out of them, you end up with a pretty powerful amplifier.


    • #22702
      nickd
      Participant

      No problem at all. This has all been like drinking from a firehose! Would I install the NX1000 directly into the end table? I wonder if that would throw off the WinISD measurement….

      It’s hard to find the NX1000 in stock. Could i make an amp using ICEpower like your other video recommended, or is that not ideal for subwoofer amps? Maybe I should stick with the 15″ PA amp, and 250w Dayton LOL

      • #22706
        Elliott
        Participant

        The ICEpower amps are great in any situation as long as you pick one that outputs more wattage than you need (headroom), just bare in mind that to get that power your input voltage needs to be high enough, so you may need a preamp.


        Elliott Dyson – Elliott Designs (YouTube) – 3rd year MENG Student
      • #22732
        123toid
        Keymaster

        The Nx1000 or any pro amp would sit wherever your other gear sit (ie your receiver). Typically most people run speakon connectors on the back of the subwoofer to hook it up.


    • #22736
      michafr1
      Participant

      I would like to choose a quality subwoofer, but I don’t know anything about it…

    • #22764
      nickd
      Participant

      I’m not sure how to answer that since I’m new to this. Maybe the best way to answer, is to give you a little background. I’d like to buy/build my first DECENT subwoofer for home theater (not music). I have a Harman Kardon AVR1700 5.1 receiver, and Martin logan motion 12 towers/center. Not sure at what level, the subwoofer will be too big compared to the towers….8″?10″?12″? etc I have a pair of cheaper monoprice 4010 inwall rears. I’ve had a Sony SA-WM40 since 2000. I’ve really been leaning on youtube, and forums to tell me what is “Good” subwoofer for the money. My room is in a basement with pergo wood laminate. It’s long but narrow, maybe 7ft ceiling, 10ft wide, but like 40 ft long (we only sit about 8 ft from 77″ oled). I dont need the subwoofer to rattle the WHOLE house, preferably it doesn’t due to W.A.F. But something that plays the low stuff well in HT. Most i want to spend, new or used, buy or build, is $500. If i buy, i would either get SVS PB/SB 1000 (pro/non-pro), Starke SW12, or Emotiva SE12, or Dayton 1200. If i build, i’m thinking your Passive Radiator build using 8″ sub and radiators. I’m thinking I dont “NEED” the 15″ end table, but open to being convinced LOL 🙂

    • #22780
      123toid
      Keymaster

      You know what is funny, I used to have that same Sony Subwoofer! That is crazy! Eventually my sub blew. If you ever take that driver out, you will be surprised at how cheap the driver actually is. How do you feel about your current bass? It would seem that a subwoofer that size would be really small for that area.

      Honestly, if it was me, I would go with more SD for that room. The 8″ cube is nice, but really designed for a smaller room that you have. My first thought is to go with the new Dayton MX15-22. It’s actually what I use and honestly compares really well to the ultimax, but saves you some money. It is only $230. You would still need an amplifier, so I would look used at something like this Inuke on Ebay (It does state no power supply – I think they mean cord, but I would double check that). That is about $220. All in you are at $450 without counting wood and maybe the fan mod. All in you would be right around $500 maybe more, depending on the materials you choose. To me a 15″ is where you would want to be with that size room.

      I did do a video on the MX15 build here:

      https://youtu.be/jKJ-ic0XB_Y

      We could scale it back a little to make it more end table size.


    • #22782
      123toid
      Keymaster

      Another option, would be the $100 Is build. That is what I currently use in my living room. This could be made into an end table. The subwoofers aren’t as good as the MX15-22, but in this configuration they are nice. The subwoofers have gone up in price. But the amplifier is about $250 and the subwoofers around $120 so around $370 plus the ports and terminal cups. Should all count out below $500.

      https://youtu.be/CvUjWNwPHDU

      But if none of those interest you, we can look into other options. Designing a subwoofer is relatively easy to do. So if there is a sub you saw that intrigues you, let’s look at it.


    • #22793
      nickd
      Participant

      15mx is out of stock unfortunately until March 🙁

    • #22795
      123toid
      Keymaster

      yuck. That is always my go to for around $500. I just is a great subwoofer for the price.


    • #22830
      nickd
      Participant

      I watched the $100 Is build video again using the GRS 10″ and realized you said it could be made into an end table.

      How would you compare the Dayton 15″ PA PN-395-8 driver ($225 at PE) in the end table vs GRS in the end table? (Sound quality, Motor structure, etc)

    • #22840
      123toid
      Keymaster

      Honestly, I swapped out the 15″ End table with this The GRS build. Now I mainly did this, so that I build myself a Soundstage 15 (it’ll eventually be going in my outdoor theater (whenever I get the time to build it)). But I have been very happy with the GRS in my living room acting as a makeshift end table (I haven’t finished the table part yet). To me, it is one of the best values out there to build. It goes lower in frequency than the PN15 – which for movies is a big deal to me. Either you would probably be happy with, but I prefer this for the lower frequency. Then I prefer the MX15-22 to both, but it is a much different build. These two would fit more of what you are going for. Let me see if I can find the post where a guy built one into an end table.


    • #22842
      123toid
      Keymaster

      @NickD Here is the build that @lionhrt9 did. https://toidsdiyaudio.com/forums/discussion/iso-100-build-20hz-for-under-100/page/2/ On Page 3 he does a video of it playing. It is pretty hilarious if you watch it tot he end.


    • #23316
      dave13
      Participant

      @Toid and @NickD I had several of the same questions, so this discussion is really helping me – thanks! I also have a long, narrow basement theater (7’6″ ceiling, 20′ wide, 60′ long, but the seating is in the first 20′). I would also like to keep the build (including amp) to around $500. Based on this, it sounds like the GRS ISO-100 build would be better for me than the PN15. (I like the low end too). Is my space too big for the ISO-100 build?

      You also have me very intrigued with the MX15-22. Is the NX-1000 discontinued, is that why it is hard to find? Do you have any other suggestions for amp that would be in that $250-$300 range?

      btw … I finally got some time to finish the Cinema 6’s. They are sweet – thank you for all that you do!

    • #23321
      123toid
      Keymaster

      @dave13 I don’t think your space is necassirly too big. However, you will probably end up wanting two subwoofers to fill that room no matter what you go with. My favorite is the MX15, followed by the IS)-100.

      As far as I know, the NX 1000 is not discontinued. It is harder to find because of the chip shortage. And because of that, the prices have gone up. I did find the NX-1000D here and the NX-3000D for just a little bit more money here. However both are on backorder-everywhere I have looked. Having said that, I highly recommend the DSP version so the you can put a good high pass on it to get the best performance out of your subwoofer. In addition, you can get a much more even response with little DSP if you want. For about $60 more, you can get the 3000, which gives you the opportunity to add another subwoofer at a later date. But both of them are a little above the price range that you suggested. But if you could squeeze your budget just a little more, those are the ones that I would recommend. I just don’t know when they’ll be back in stock. Now I did find. My inuke 6000 off eBay. Scratch that, it was actually Facebook marketplace. So you could always check there for a used one. If that doesn’t scare you. Just keep in mind you are going to want to do the fan mod on any of the Behringer amplifiers. Those things sound like a jet taking off in your room.

      Now, I have to say. You did an amazing job on those cinema 6’s! Is that Duratex or Exohyde? Whatever it is that all black look looks amazing! Well done!


    • #23326
      dave13
      Participant

      @Toid Thanks! I used flat black latex paint and applied a coat of Varathane flat poly to protect them. Very happy with how they turned out and, of course, how they sound!

      You definitely have me thinking on the pair of subs. Would it make sense to have them both in the front of the room spaced about 15′ apart?

      I’m not in a big rush, so I’ll give some thought to the NX-3000D and the MX15. But I do need to figure out the size, so I can finish the rest of the HT. Would this same size end table design work? This is 5.3 cubic feet and it looks like your Monster sub design is more like 8 cubic feet. btw … do you have a plan for that?

      If I go with the ISO-100, would you recommend the NX-1000D? Or would those be better with a pair of plate amps?

      Sorry for all the questions, but appreciate the advice!

    • #23328
      123toid
      Keymaster

      I never came out with a specific plan for the one I built. But I could get some basic information on it. If I am not mistaken the MX 15 is a 5.3 cubic foot box. BUt I would have to remeasure that to make sure. BUt if you wanted it closer to 4 cubic foot. You could do that and still get an anechoic F3 of around 23Hz before your highpass. Once you put your high pass on it will probably be closer to 25hz.

      There is nothing wrong with that placement. That is really up to you and how the room is set up. Some people will do a sub crawl to find the best placement, while others just want it functional and look nice. Having said that, there are no red flags about your placement idea.

      If you did the Iso 100, you could use the Inuke with no issues. I still recommend get the one with DSP. And this noctua fan. It is a really easy mod and quite frankly, necessary. If you need any help, I would be happy to assist with that on the forum.


    • #23425
      dave13
      Participant

      I do have some latitude with the size. It is going to go into a built-in set of cabinets that I’m designing. That was a requirement to meet the WAF 😉

      So, I could go up to 6-7 cubic feet or so. Maybe more if I design the built-in cabinets differently. I would really like to get down to 20 Hz, or at least as low as feasible.

      I’ve not come up the design learning curve yet. Do you have some threads in the forum that would start with the basics? Such as, does the shape of the box have much of an effect, or is the key total volume? Is 5.3 cubic feet enough to get down to 20 Hz? Or would I not even notice the difference between 20 and 25 Hz?

      Back onto the DSP version of the amp … I enjoyed your review of the DSP-LF. Are there pros/cons to going with the built-in DSP on something like the NX-1000 or NX-3000 versus adding on the DSP-LF?

      Sorry for the barrage of questions …

    • #23430
      123toid
      Keymaster

      @dave13 That sounds like a really awesome project! In fact, I plan to do something like that when I create some built-in in the living room. As far as the MX15-22 it has an F3 of 20hz in a 5.3 cubic foot box (before any room gain). Even if you add a 20hz high pass (which I would recommend to protect the driver), you can add just a small amount of eq (check picture) and maintain the 20hz without worrying about over excursion.


    • #23431
      123toid
      Keymaster

      I love the DSP-LF for its simplicity, but it does have its drawbacks. In general there is less customization and often protection for a driver like the MX15. I would use this more with a smaller subwoofer that you are hooking up to a plate amplifier. That’s really where the DSP-LF shines. Once you start getting into Pro amplifiers, I would get built-in dsp or a higher grade dsp.


    • #23474
      dave13
      Participant

      You definitely have me headed toward building a pair of subs with the MX15-22 and powering them with the NX-3000D. 🤤

      I can design the built-in to give room for a 5.3 cubic foot. Looking at your speaker, I may need to lay it on it’s side, but that’s not a problem, right?

      Could you get me some basic measurements from your build?

      A few measurements, plus the photos here may be enough for me to get close. https://toidsdiyaudio.com/forums/discussion/max-x-high-excursion-15-subwoofer-for-only-200-build-ideas/page/2/#post-13605. Do you have any additional build photos that might help me?

      Sorry, another total newbie question … is there a crossover circuit inside the sub or do you handle that directly with the NX-3000D?

    • #23518
      dave13
      Participant

      @Toid I used one of your photos of your MX15-22 speaker and estimated the outside dimensions to be 36″ tall and 20″ wide. Then, assuming 5.3 cubic feet and 3/4″ MDF, I’m guessing that the depth is 16″. Does that sound right? Maybe it is 16.75″ deep because it looks like you doubled up the MDF on the front face? Does the 5.3 cubic feet measure the internal volume and neglect the internal bracing?

      It looks like the port might be 1.75″ tall and 16″ wide. Does that sound right? And it looks like the vertical supports inside the port may be 3/4″ MDF. Do those go all the way around the fold in order to stiffen the entire port?

      I’m having a tough time estimating the total length of the port, though. Can’t find a photo where there would be a good reference dimension.

      I hope you don’t mind the reverse engineering. 😀

      Thanks again!

    • #23520
      123toid
      Keymaster

      I just measured it for you. It is 22″ deep 35″ tall and 18″ wide. It does utilize a double front baffle. And don’t forget you need to subtract the port from the total box volume. There are 3 ports that are 5″ wide (3/4″ material separating each one) and 2″ tall that is 30″ long. You can see how I built it here: https://youtu.be/jKJ-ic0XB_Y

      I wish I made plans, I just never had the time.


    • #23563
      dave13
      Participant

      Awesome – thank you! I’m starting to drool …

      Take a look in your messages. 😉

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