MemberDecember 3, 2021 at 7:51 pm
I recently upgraded my laptop to the asus x515, and I am currently attempting to install DATS V3 onto it. I’ve having a strange issue though, the test graph that I’m getting after shorting the clips doesn’t look anything like it used to on my old one, instead I’m getting this
The impedance test graph seems ok but I can’t figure out why the above is happening. I have noticed that in the microphone settings this new laptop doesn’t have the option for 16bit 44100hz, it only goes up to fm radio quality. Can someone please help?
MemberDecember 3, 2021 at 9:09 pm
@Dameo182 – So, I know nothing of Win 11 and where they are hiding the settings. I would love to help, but without understanding the new OS, I cannot step you through to fix the settings. Do they have a way to open the classic control panel?
The best start will be trying to open windows for sound settings and take pictures for me to understand where they are hiding their settings. Without that, I cannot determine where they are hiding the toggle for those settings. Also goes to show, newer isn’t always better. Until Windows 11, I always was an early adopter. But Windows 8 was crap and I wasted money on it, so when I hear Win 11 literally has ads it pops up at you, I wouldn’t touch it. After Win 10, I’m going Linux.
In any case, I’m going to have to see pics in order to help navigate you.
That page has enough instructions that you should be able to get to the older looking menus to setup device parameters for both playback and microphone (you’ll need to setup both).
MemberDecember 3, 2021 at 10:28 pm
Thanks for taking the time to reply, my problem is though that I have found the place where the settings should be, only they aren’t there. The option of 16bit 44100hz doesn’t exist in the drop down menus
Im not sure if it even matters tbh, but I ran through the set up guide for DATS and it says that the Re number should be within 995 and 1000 when testing the clips attatched to the built in pins. Only I get a range of numbers, every time I run the test I get a different value, I had 1070, 965,972 then I gave up since I’m convinced this laptop doesn’t want to run it. The graph I posted earlier has also changed when shorting the clips, surely the graphs should be consistantly the same at least, even if the numbers were wrong I would assume the same value should be produced each time?
So a recap of the ussues are
• Changing imoedance values with each test
• not having the right bit rate choice anywhere in the settings for the usb input
MemberDecember 3, 2021 at 10:37 pm
Oh I should also add that at the time of those pictures I was running windows 10, after being unable to fix it I decided to upgrade to 11 thinking maybe that one woukd work. It didn’t, in fact there was no change to my results at all
I now dread the thought of trying to instal and run omnimic
MemberDecember 3, 2021 at 10:39 pm
@dameo182 – So, I have had that issue crop up before. Oddly enough, it is like an errata for taking in the information and figuring out how to interpret it.
This will sound pedantic, but have you tried rebooting the computer? Not lying, many times when the readings are acting really weird, it can be a misloaded generic driver, which rebooting is an easy way to reload those. I know the “off and on” trope of computer troubleshooting, but I would say give that a try. It also can be effected if left plugged in or plugged in after rebooting (I forgot which worked best for me). I use mine connected through a USB hub, so that is what has caused some of my issues and why I am recommending it (not trying to talk down to anyone). I just haven’t had it connected in a month or two, so I cannot remember exactly which way I did it.
But, it not giving options for the higher fidelity does suggest something is off in a loaded driver somewhere.
MemberDecember 3, 2021 at 10:45 pm
I have restarted the laptop quite a few times as I was doing updates of anything I could find that needed it still with no success, but as you mentioned, I did leave the dats plugged in so I will try a rebboot with it removed. Other than trying to find driver add ons or sonething I’m not sure what else to try
MemberDecember 3, 2021 at 11:08 pm
@dameo182 – So, confirmed it is a generic USB Composite Device driver in the Universal Serial Bus controllers drop down in device manager. Pretty sure port will vary with your device (depending on where plugged in on the device, because the system maps out the ports and hubs for routing signals, so mine should not match yours).
There also could be a permissions issue. Have you restricted microphone for apps at all on your device? Also, what settings are you using for Exclusive Mode (the square under where the default format is located)? Wondering if you have set it for exclusive and another app is grabbing it. Do you have USB Audio Codec Speakers and Line In set for default? If you didn’t select speakers for USB audio codec, then the signal being sent isn’t running out to the dats to run across the 1K Ohm resistor, which then you cannot get the reading.
Trying to think what other things need considered because when I first plugged in my DATS, I couldn’t get it to work at ALL and had to go through all of this. I disable microphone in NTLite, where I make custom Windows images, so I had to go in, enable microphone, etc.
Also, even though it is a generic USB audio codec, we might want to try installing a broad codec on your system as a catch all if these things do not address it. Something like Shark007 or whichever codec pack flavor is popular these days (tells my age).
MemberDecember 4, 2021 at 12:18 am
Thanks for all your time writing that out, after reading through it and trying again with the laptop I managed to find an udate for the drivers, windows 11 doesn’t update everything in the main upload, so now I have the correct cd quality on the recorder part of the settings. Whether it will still be there next time I open the laptop is another matter, but for now I think that part is resolved. I’m going to give DATS another try in the morning as it’s late here now, ill post the results once I’ve run the test.
I have a box of resistors for circuit practice, which I bought to put together a summing circuit for a mono bluetooth speaker I’m building, so I may see if I can use a 1k to test and see if the DATS might be faulty, but that would take a bit of trail and error as I’m not sure how to set that up. But as I said before, I’m not completely sure it’s reading wrong. From the way the setup guide was written it seemed as though you retest until you get a reading between 995 and 1000 and then you know it’s calabrated right, but that doesn’t seem that likely to me, it seems more likely that my readings are just wrong. Anyway, thanks again for the help, ill be in touch tomorrow 👍
MemberDecember 4, 2021 at 1:03 am
@dameo182 – What matters is we are making progress! We have the driver situation somewhat defined if not fixed.
Now, with DATS, you can also have one of two models, G or H. Under Edit, then preferences inside of the DATS program drop down menus, you have at the bottom the Hardware Version. Please select which one for your device. Mine is an H, seen with the screws on the side and the letter H painted on the bottom corner on the underside of the chassis. Selecting the wrong version can cause incorrect readings as well.
Just wanted to mention that for when you start back up tomorrow. Always good to run down the checklist of settings.
Take care and rest easy! If you have a multimeter, you should try reading the resistance on that as a sanity check. If your multimeter is accurate and the resistance reading is the same as the DATS is getting (within a reasonable margin), then the resistor in the DATS is off and it doesn’t matter. Always good to come up with sanity checks as well.
MemberDecember 4, 2021 at 2:24 am
Not having read the entire thread, I’m going to throw my 2 cents in, so you know what that is worth, and add that you might want to take ownership of the directory where application is located. I know NOTHING about the program but some applications will like to write to the application directory and not the app data directory. This will sometime cause an issue with Windows 10/11. You can download the reg hack here that will add the command to your right click menu options to take ownership of the selected directory in File Explorer.
There are also links to details on how you can do this manually on that same page. In case you are uncomfortable with running a Reg hack.
Its may not have anything to do with your issue but I had this happen in the past and taking ownership of the directory will not hurt anything if it isn’t the problem.
Also, and I have not gone through each line of this thred so my apologies if this was already mentioned but was this an upgrade to Win11 or a clean install. Both have issues and drivers may have been updated or not loaded at all depending on the type of install you did. When upgrading from one OS to another it is highly recommended you do a clean install of the OS. You do not have to but it’s a good idea as it allows Windows to install, well… cleanly.
Ok so that was my two cense worth and probably not worth two cents. Pardon the interruption from the peanut gallery. I now return you to your regularly scheduled programing.
MemberDecember 4, 2021 at 3:28 pm
Thanks for taking the time, it seems that it was an issue with the driver updates, I can now select 16bit 44100hz in the menus after updating that particular driver. It hadn’t been done during the upgrade to windows 11. But that fix hasn’t helped with my DATS readings, I am still getting the wrong values as I will show below, thanks again
MemberDecember 4, 2021 at 3:31 pm
So I’ve been messing with this again today and even though, having checked that it is set to H, I’m still getting the wrong reading during the shorting test. The setup guude says it should show as no more than 1ohm but I’m getting around 2ohms. I also have the screen showing white now which I’ve no idea why? Even after uninstalling and reinstalling the dats software
Sorry for the shitty image, I post using my phone so it’s easier to take a picture then upload it
MemberDecember 4, 2021 at 3:43 pm
@dameo182 – I like pulling up the Snipping Tool to do quick screenshots, personally. But that is also due to using a 50in TV as a monitor and a 22″ in portrait.
That is strange (regarding going to white now and for that slant).
Have you rebooted this morning (or even better, full shut-down, then restart, as laptops can do weird things with suspend/hibernate where the drivers stay loaded in the image moved to the hard-drive from memory, so it doesn’t always clear and load the drivers fresh)?
Do you have a multimeter? (either way, we know the software is reading incorrectly, but just double checking to see if there is a hardware issue, which happens).