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The Dinas – Do I need a Subwoofer. It features a Tang Band W5-1138MF tuned to 35HZ, a RS100-4 and a TN28-B. Each speaker uses the Lepai LP210PA
You can buy the Plans here and the Flat Packs here
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Components I was able to save from a bad house fire.
McIntosh tweeters
6” Klipsch woofers
10” off brand car sub
400 watt Klipsch plate amp.
Currently set up as my center channel which sounds great. Going to redesign it though, blew the screws out that held the tweeters in. Can be set up as a LCR setup. Have enough to make two lol.
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I made this last year, I followed Hanri from soundblabs design, but adjusted sizes to suit the sub that I used.
It has 2 Visaton frs8’s at 4ohm and a Dayton Audio DS135-8 5″ Designer Series Woofer
It is powered by one of the cheap Chinese 2.1 Bluetooth amps
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First attempt at building ht speakers. Just finished the center channel today. Using a wavecor 6.5 for the surronds. Looking to update subs with ht in mind currently using 2 alpine type s 12s I was using for car audio but got the tuning to 27 hz 6.4 cubic foot. They do surprising (to me) good but goal is to get larger subs to dig deeper with.
Wavecor 4.5 wf118wao7
Dayton 2.0 rs52an
Wavecor 30mm. tw030wa10
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Here are some Overnight sensation speakers that I built in kit form, my first DIY speakers. It was a great learning experience and have taken what I have learned from that and are currently working on a boombox of sorts which I plan of finishing and posting as soon as I can get to them.
Until then here are some pictures of my build process. I currently have these in my living room and consider them to be some of the best speakers that I have.
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Haha, funny story 😉 The build is pretty sweet. I like the cigar box enclosure. Funny story as well, I built my wife a bt boombox for her birthday. She loves it.
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Here is my version of the DINAS set up at my computer. I’m using the Dayton Audio CX120-8 for the mid and tweeter.
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This is a great interpretation of the Dinas!
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Here are a few pictures of the build process, measurements, and final product for my outdoor speakers. DC28F tweeter in SEOS 8 waveguide with GRS 8″ woofer. I had planned sealed, but the cheap woofer ended up requiring an aperiodic vent consisting of a cheap 3″ drain and 1″ think project foam cut to fit inside.
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THose are beautiful. Love the ND series on there
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Oh wow! I’m not sure that these even need to be heard. They could be a furniture piece. They are really beautiful. Nice work.
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@mumbles202 I like the enclosure you have them in now.
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Greetings from Germany
2.1 Active Subwoofer Broadband System, inspired by the DINAS but cheaper
Used Speakers:
Broadband Omnes Audio BB3.01A
Subwoofer Omnes Audio SW 6.01
Satellites: 3 Liters, bassreflex vented, tuning frequency 80 Hz
Subwoofer: 12,2 Liter bassreflex vented, tuning frequency 37 Hz, f3 -3dB @ 34Hz
Amplifier: Similar to Lepai LP210PA 2x30W + 60W 2.1 Channel Mini Plate Amplifier TPA3118 Subwoofer frequency filter from 30 to 150Hz Satellite filter frequency from 100 Hz
Built-in Bluetooth 5.0 module
Body: birch plywood multiplex 12mm
Top and front: Oak glue wood 18mm
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THose are beautiful! Love it!
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So i posted this in the wrong section, now ive found the right one, this is my first completed bluetooth speaker. Made this for the mrs, she loves it. Enclosure is made from 18mm mdf, clad in aged brass with a satin paint on the baffle. I used the dayton pc83-8 for this build, for such a small driver the bass is rediculous, vented i think these go down to around 55hz, but correct me if im wrong. Either way everyone who has heard this has said they cant believe how good it sounds without a sub so i think it turned out ok
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Looks fantastic! I love that black front baffle It is a perfect contrast to your wood sides.
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Thankyou, that means a lot coming from someone who makes a lot of good quality speakers. The sides though arent wood, its a folded peice of brass sheet that i aged with an acid and glued onto the mdf enclosure, i make brass bar tops and other fancy metal products in the same way at work as im a welder/fabricator so that gave me the idea. I did have a few meltdowns though trying to paint that mdf front! 😂
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I made a 30 cal ammo-can boombox. Really fun to take places and show off 😉
It’s pretty solid and sounds very nice for its size. Works of a 3s battery pack and a class d amp board.
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Hereby some pictures of my most recent builds:
I used two PS95-8 for desktop speakers and added a TB W5-1138SMF to complete it into 2.1 system. The woofer is still playing in an MDF enclosure, but the PS95’s now play in a closed box from beech.
Next was to add the same sub for the desktop speakers at my home-office. What shows to be a good extension for the low-end. The drivers at my desk are Dynaudio 17W75 and Eton 25SD1
Next plan is to rebuild the boxes for the Dynaudio/Eton’s. A good inspiration was the two-color wood boxes of the Dinas earlier in this topic. I tried a sample of meranti in beech. This should become nice to look at while working 🙂
A question: Does any of you have some experience with variovents, especially to build them yourself? The 17W75’s have a Qts that is a bit on the high side, so a slight improvement would possibly help to polish up the impuls response just bit.
Greetings from the Netherlands.
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@foxaudio They look really fantastic. Good wood-working job!
I have a question though. You mentioned that the satellites are ported at 80 Hz, yet filtered at 100 Hz. What was the reason that you put the satellites in a ported box?
Cheers!
Ron
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Hey @ronl
Thanks for your question, which I probably can not answer directly. My intention was to get the bass of the satellites as low as it can be, so I added a port and it turned out, when I designed the case with WINISD, that 80 Hz would be the best option for those small speakers. And I can say, closing that port with the hand, removes a lot of base response, so I think this port is very useful. As I’m using this in combination with the relatively big woofer, I thought the satellites need to reach down as far as possible. Also I think the crossover in the used amp is not so steep, so starting cutting off at 100Hz still had less than -3dB volume loss at 80 Hz.
I haven’t measured those yet and I’m sure these could be optimized. But I’m pretty happy with the build and the sound.
I have them in my sleeping room attached to an Arylic S10 preamp which allows me to connect via BT, stream Spotify and so on. I have attached a fire TV Stick to that preamp and it works great for watching Youtube and listening to Music via Spotify.
I’m looking forward building a new set for my workshop with the amp Toid just reviewed, where you could change the crossover frequency via the DSP.
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Sweet! I love this build. Why are there ports in the rear and the passive radiator? Can you share a YouTube link?
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@donnie
Nice build. Do you use the amp also for the sattelites? I use them for my 2.1 system and I hear a pretty high frequent noise. Not sure if it comes from the power supply or the amp itself.
Just wanted to get some other opinions about that board.Next build will be with the arylic 2.1 amp board with built in digital EQ.
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It might be your power supply or power in general. Typically those amplifiers are pretty quiet. Having said that, the arylic 2.1 amplifier is miles better. Good choice.
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@foxaudio – If willing to do active crossover (which can even be done externally, think of terminals per driver if doing multiple drivers per speaker), then an amp per channel (internal or external), something like this might be worth looking at:
8 channels on that eval board, and able to do FIR filtering, etc. Miles better chip with the ADAU1467 than the ADAU1701. It could control 2 3-way or 4-way floorstanders by itself, potentially. Granted, you would need the amps per channel separate after this, but…
Sorry to derail, just a thought.
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Is the 1701 not capable of this? I know it’s not very capable in terms of FIR, not much at all in fact. But I thought it was more than capable of minimum phase crossovers. I’ve recently ordered a couple of Wondom jab3 2×50 boards for some 2-way large wall mounted bookshelf speakers I’m doing. I’m pretty sure these boards can be linked up with each other, that way I believe they could be capable up to 4way crossovers, or maybe even more if the input source was able to be duplicated or split with some device of some kind.
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@elliottdesigns – It can do limited, but when you compare the two, they are different classes. For example, there is more storage on the 1467 and it can do around just under 6x the instructions per sample. What this means, in part, is if you do not have the phase set correctly, you can do a much longer time delay to a channel off of the chip, thereby allowing for more forgiveness in your designs when using as an active crossover. It can use more advanced FIR filters, which also helps, as it can process more double precision per second, significantly more, which makes this night and day different.
And you are correct. Hell, I’m using the JAB5 boards because of the capabilities of the ADAU1701. It is in a lot of products and is a good chip. But Analog’s next gen chips are really that much better. Double the cost, and has to have the codec chip integrated separately, which increases costs, but it is a beast in comparison.
This is compared to their Sharc products and last generation (1401 for auto and 1701 for home) products. That doesn’t mean their other products are bad at all. Just wanted to mention the shear power of this new generation. With that said, all that are floating around are two or three different main variants of the developer boards at the minute, most being 8-channels. So if you use this as an active crossover, you can run stereo 3 or 4 channel speakers. Or you can use this to fine tune what is needed, then reverse engineer to a passive crossover for a home theater system, then use this as a DSP for the entire HTS.
Just want to be clear, I’m not speaking to what the ADAU1701 is capable of, which is still a fair amount. Instead, I am highlighting what the new generation is capable of, which is significant.
I include three links below, the first is a table from analog comparing specs, the second is the spec and product overview page for the 1467, and the third is a forum discussion on the ADAU1701 from years ago regarding autoEQ that I found to be a good read.
https://www.analog.com/en/parametricsearch/11310#/
https://www.analog.com/en/products/adau1467.html#product-overview
https://ez.analog.com/dsp/sigmadsp/f/q-a/64304/adau1701-sigmastudio-rew-auto-eq
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@123toid, The ports are to ventilate the amp which is sealed off from the sub cabinet. I know this is probably overkill for this little chip amp. Here is the youtube link:
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@foxaudio, I ran it both ways, just as a sub amp and as a 2.1 system from my Topping MX3 as a pre-amp. I did not get any hum or distortion. For the money it seems to be a good little amp. I wish Lepai and others would ALWAYS include the power supply and a auto on/off feature with their amps.
Youtube Link to my build:
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What an excellent video! That build was top notch. I’ll have to share it. Love what you did here.
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@donnie Thanks for the reply. So maybe I have a “Monday”-Model 😀
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Another update from my building activities. Together with my son, we built a pair of DINAS-inspired monitors for his music studio.
For the speaker line-up we used the same drivers as the DINAS. As we live in NL, we of course had to rework the dimensions to metric. For the amplifier we used the zoudio amplifierboard (https://zoudio.com/product/aio4ch/ ), this cost a few €’s more than the Lepai, however, it has DSP capabilities. The crossover and room-EQ can be handled somewhat easier than with the Lepai.
After the first listening sessions we are already quite happy with the result. Next step to do is apply the room corrections to make it even better.
Here is a picture to show off the result. (in the back my Dynaudio/Eton desktops, which now play together with a sub with the TB-woofer)
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