Home Forums DIY Speakers and Subwoofers My first DIY speaker project

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    deadeye
    Member

    I suppose it’s time to put a build together.

    My living room is 5m x 7m and is our cinema room.  We chose this house pimarily becuase as a new build, it doesn’t have patio doors at the end of the room and there is a cupboard behind the living room.  This means my projector is in the cupboard firing through a hole in the wall down the length of the room

    I have PMC OB1s as mains and the PMC CB6 centre.  Here in the UK, PMC are well known and these speakers are well known.

    I listen to movies and music quite loud.

    I have a JL Audio 12″ sub called the E112 which is great.

    So I don’t need “full-range” fronts but it would be good to turn the amp to “Stereo Direct” and just play some vinyl from just the mains.

    Probably the wrong way round, but I know exactly what I want then to look like.



    I did get a price for a local company to CNC the bits but stupidly I had 6mm Aluminium templates CNC’d with waterjet and bolted my router to a board.  While this is obviously cheaper, it’s very boring and I’ve already broken a router bit.

    I did build 12 inches of a front as a prototype which was great as I soon realised sandwhiching slippery glued surfaces together with any acurace was impossible hense the 6 10mm holes which will have 10mm threaded rod down the middle.  It also allows me to glue 2 or 3 slices at a time.

    Each open slice is 1.18 Ltrs and each slice with a cross secion is either 0.9 Ltrs or 0.85 Ltrs so it’s really easy to add more slices to make the internal volumne of a box I want smaller or larger. 

  • My first DIY speaker project

  • deadeye

    Member
    February 21, 2021 at 7:32 pm

    So behind the tweeter is open, behind the mid is a small cavity (which might end up being too big for a mid at 4Ltrs and the rest is either open, left to right braced, or front to back – betweetn drivers etc.

    The average thickness of the walls is 45mm and the front baffle is 50mm  The back baffle is 50mm and has a 12mm hold for wires to be threaded.

    Here’s some progress pics.

    I’ve turned a hell of a lof of MDF back in the Medium Fibres!









  • deadeye

    Member
    February 21, 2021 at 7:37 pm

    Now I really need to make my descision on drivers.

    I keep thinking I’ve decided then I see a YouTube vid by TOID and the Dayton Esoteric drivers.  I really like the woven fibre cone material.

    Here’s a first stab at 2 ES7s, an ES5 and the Corundom Tweeter.  I’ve no idea what I’m doing yet but I’m getting the graph flatish.

  • deadeye

    Member
    February 21, 2021 at 7:39 pm

    I’m going for a piano finish just to make things easy.  The copper rings behind the drivers where in case I went with Seas Excel drivers.  Otherwise the rings will be aluminium.

  • 123toid

    Administrator
    February 22, 2021 at 12:53 am

    @deadeye

    First of all I love the look!  They are going to be gorgeous.  Are these going to be mainly music or movies?  I like the esoteric drivers a lot and definitely recommend them.  They are very beautiful drivers. I would recommend porting them though. 


  • deadeye

    Member
    February 22, 2021 at 4:32 pm

    70/30 film/music.

    Still stuck on drivers – people seem to rave about the SB Satori TexTreme drivers…  I’ve made enough slives to build one speaker if only I could decide on drivers 🙁  This is the part of the proect I’m not enjoying.

  • deadeye

    Member
    February 22, 2021 at 5:24 pm

    @toids Any comments on my PDC graph I should be worried about at this early stage?

    Am I doing the right thing using the 5 and the 7 ES drivers?

     

    Why port the ES7s?  I know I should get lower base but realistically they are going to be cut off at 80Hz most of the time and I prefer punch I think.  Plus I have the 12mm hole going up the back of the speaker for the wire which would become a problem if I want to poke a 3″ port through it! 🙂

  • 123toid

    Administrator
    February 22, 2021 at 10:49 pm

    @deadeye

    Are these manufacturers responses?  If so, then you are a going to be a little high when you make this.  Since you are using two woofers (7″) then you will want everything below bafflestep to be about 3db down.  So the rest of the graph should hoover around 84-85db.  So your tweeter will want to be padded down a little and your mid is playing a little loud in the 1-2khz range, which I prefer being a little softer.  IT just might make a bright speaker.  Of course, if this is what you are after, then don’t worry about that as much. 

    If you are cutting your bass off at 80hz, I wouldn’t port them. 


  • deadeye

    Member
    February 22, 2021 at 11:13 pm

    The Tangbands in the uglies seem to have sold out everywhere, probably your fault!

    any other recommendations on something else similar?

    8” is my ideal size but options seem limited.

    9s are too wide.

  • deadeye

    Member
    February 23, 2021 at 12:53 am

    I’ve just realised the 9″ morel is acually an 8″ or at least it’s in an 8″ basket – more or less 🙂

     

     

     

  • tvor-ceasar

    Moderator
    February 23, 2021 at 1:36 am
    Posted by: @deadeye

    I’ve just realised the 9″ morel is acually an 8″ or at least it’s in an 8″ basket – more or less 🙂

     

     

     

    All the more reason to read full specs rather than just the splash page info, even if it gives you a lot of info. How’s the Morel model in your “box”?


  • deadeye

    Member
    February 23, 2021 at 1:50 am

    Well…

    Inthoygjt I had far too much space available with the other drivers but it looks like the Morel needs a lot more. So luckily the mid ive chosen doesn’t need it own cavity so I’ve got about 50litrs which my first go at WinISD says F3 of 48Hz.

     

    more than happy with that considering…

     

    From my limited knowledge gained, if I cross over at 80Hz I should be able to crank these up to my hearts content. 2 x 9” each side 🙂 it’s 2am now, that’s how excited I am.

    Now I can finish putting the last slices in the box.

  • deadeye

    Member
    March 16, 2021 at 5:21 pm

    Things have progressed a tad.  First test using a pair of two-way crossovers from my car hifi days 15 years ago.  It’s brother is in later stages of construction!

    I cried a bit when I played the first tune.

     




  • deadeye

    Member
    March 16, 2021 at 5:30 pm

    Time for some measuring, more messing around PCD/Vituix so I can buy some components.

    First I had one crossover doing the tweeter and one woofer and the other doing the mid and the other woofer.  I really didn’t know what was going on and something didn’t feel right.  So I moved everything over to one crossover and I felt it liked me cranking the volume up.  My amp and the resistors on the crossovers remained cold.

    There’s a lot of potential!

  • deadeye

    Member
    November 5, 2021 at 10:16 am

    So… I finished them but it was a rocky road.

    This was the 2nd main prototype

    [IMG]http://development.crm-uk.com/images/speakers/beforecrack.png[/IMG]

    The 3rd which was to match split very quickly and badly – I hadn’t completely covered the outside so the MDF shrank – I think it was 10mm shorter than the one above!

    [IMG]http://development.crm-uk.com/images/speakers/split1.jpg[/IMG]
    [IMG]http://development.crm-uk.com/images/speakers/split2.jpg[/IMG]
    [IMG]http://development.crm-uk.com/images/speakers/split3.jpg[/IMG]

    Gutted

    Eventually, the 2nd started to split too – when I took the drivers out, the inside must have dried out and shrunk.

    [IMG]http://development.crm-uk.com/images/speakers/crack.jpg[/IMG]

    I’m all in at this stage, I’ve spent about £1000 on drivers and about £400 on crossover parts.

    I went back to the guy I’d found to CNC the slices for me and he suggested moisture resistant MDF.

    So I did 4 things (which is never great when diagnosing a problem):

    1) Used MR MDF
    2) Left every slice to acclimate in my living room for 2 weeks.
    3) Sprayed Shellac-based primer inside and out of every slice (64 in each speaker)
    4) Built each speaker in sections

    However, I used the threaded rod again and clamped all the sections together to bodywork the whole speaker in one go.

    [IMG]http://development.crm-uk.com/images/speakers/sandingbeforesplitting.jpg[/IMG]

    When they were perfectly sanded (about a months work) I undid the rod and split them:

    [IMG]http://development.crm-uk.com/images/speakers/splitinprimer.jpg[/IMG]

    Then I put based coat and clear coat while they were together again, then split them for colour sanding and machine polishing.

    [IMG]http://development.crm-uk.com/images/speakers/basses.jpg[/IMG]

    I used some 2mm foam sheet cut to match the profiles. Here you can see the rounded over joins as I’m building them upside down in the kitchen!

    [IMG]http://development.crm-uk.com/images/speakers/inprod.jpg[/IMG]

    Here’s the top after some colour sanding and machine polishing:
    [IMG]http://development.crm-uk.com/images/speakers/shinytop.jpg[/IMG]

    In situ side view
    [IMG]http://development.crm-uk.com/images/speakers/InSitusideview.jpg[/IMG]

    Both done:
    [IMG]http://development.crm-uk.com/images/speakers/InSitu.jpg[/IMG]

    I’ve started prototyping the centre speaker:
    [IMG]http://development.crm-uk.com/images/speakers/centreprototype.jpg[/IMG]

    They sound epic. I had to give them a nice new amp so a 400W/channel Lyngdorf 2-channel was purchased.

    They were built to be non-ported and tuned to about 45Hz but with some Dirac Live DSP, they’re able to drop to 32Hz

  • deadeye

    Member
    November 28, 2021 at 10:00 pm

    Toid?!

     

    nothing?!

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