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I was thinking of opening a new discussion here about building a diy home theater. Homemade is always perfect, right? 🙂
So here we go!
As an AV amplifier, I thought of getting a Marantz SR7015. Another option would be Denon’s AVR-X4700H.
I’ll start by making a new subwoofer because I have two extra Bang Dang w6-1139sg. But I want also choose the elements for the floor standing speakers so i can plan the enclosure for both and buy all the materials at same time.
I’m thinking of building floor speakers with three Dayton Audio 8″ RS225P-8A’s and a tweeter RST28A-4 1-1 / 8″ from the same manufacturer. I all ready tried to plan these with winISD, but i have couple of questions.
When im planing these boxes is there away to add 2 different kind of elements in the composition or do i have to plan new box for a tweeter and then add those to volumes together?
Regarding the subwoofer, my first plan was to use some passive radiators but i think im going with box with vent.
I’ll add both files with this message and if some one can look them thru and give me some advises and corrections? I checked that these boxes should have good values regarding the box volume, tuning hz, vent size, cone excursion and air velocity.
Hopefully someone can spare some time to help me out 🙂
br,
T
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Both of theose receivers are nice. If I may also suggest the newest Onkyo receivers. Both the T-RZ50 and the TX-NR7100 include Dirac live, which is a huge upgrade. Just something to consider assuming it has other features you are looking for.
I don’t have time to look at the files tonight, but I will try to look them over tomorrow and see how everything looks.
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@tomppa I found the time. The W6 looks really good. I would maybe suggest increasing your port from 3.23in x 3.23in to 4″ x 4″. If you can fit the port length, it might do a little better at higher power (port noise). But honestly, once the high pass is added in, you should be fine with what you already had designed.
The Daytons, wow they use a big box! I am surprised the port is so modest with what you are showing. Once again, you could go with a little bigger if you wanted to, but you are showing it at 200w, which is probably unrealistic true wattage that will be used. So you are probably fine.
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@123toid thank you for your time!
The box size was big surprise for me too and I was almost sure I did something wrong! I’ll try simulating with other woofers as well to see how that effect box volume. Do you have any woofer on your mind what would work on 35-5000hz range and 6,5-8″ size and would cost under 110 dollars
Edit. Oh yeah, I wanted to simulate with 200w to be 100% sure that everything worked fine even with higher power.
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Do you happen to have a 3D printer? If so, I’m working on a project called OpenPort, essentially it will be a 3D printable loudspeaker port that’s optimised to reduce chuffing at a given size as well as reducing port resonances. It’s still in very early development at the moment, but I thought you might be interested. Even then, if you do have a 3D printer, make a port, but elliptical with a fairly sparse infill and fill it with dry clean sand. That should give you better results than a generic port at least. 😉
Elliott Dyson – Elliott Designs (YouTube) – 3rd year MENG Student -
I do not have 3D printer, but my friend has so i can ask him to make me anything i need. Do you have topic in this forum about that project? I think many would be interested to fallow that project! I wanna hear and see more about it!
Also thank you for joining in to this topic and would be happy to hear all the knowledge you have about diy speakers!
br,
Tomppa
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I haven’t… Yet.
In terms of things to offer, one thing I do have to offer in terms of immersive audio, if you want the best soundstage, you want each and every speaker (except subs) to be the same. Although I’m yet to do a height channel system yet, from what I’ve heard. Those who have tried the Atmos spec and Auro3D spec, say that the Auro3D spec of having the height speakers 30° up from the listening position works best, even for Atmos, although I can’t comment on that part myself.
Elliott Dyson – Elliott Designs (YouTube) – 3rd year MENG Student -
Im thinking to build atmos speakers top of the floor standing speakers, but would separate them to own box inside the floor standing speakers. Im thinking the same tactic with tweeter in floor standing speakers, so it would be in own separate box inside the actual floor stander. These are just thoughts im working on, but would be nice to hear all the knowledge you and everyone else has about those plans.
Right now im looking at those Daytons, but going to take a look at some Tang Band, Visaton, Peerless, Seas and Scanspeak woofers as well. Any thoughts what brand would be best option for Dayton Audio?
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@elliottdesigns and @123toid have you guys used vituixcad? It seems to be very good and have allot of options and it goes deep in simulation. Any thoughts about it?
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I have not used that in a long time. I am sure I could help out if you need it, but it has been a while since I used it.
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Yep, I’ve used vituixCAD, it’s pretty great when used properly. I wouldn’t use it for the enclosure stuff though, winISD is much better at it then vituixCAD. Definitely good for baffle step diffraction simulation, but bare in mind it assumes complete baffle step (6dB), it may be less.
Elliott Dyson – Elliott Designs (YouTube) – 3rd year MENG Student -
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