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    123toid
    Keymaster

    I’m not sure how long my home theater build is going to take, but this is where I’m going to post the pictures and probably even ask for some advice here and there. Well good and first start with a before painted and after painted along with the theater seats by Valencia that I just got.

    1. Build a DIY acoustically transparent screen. This will be made from white spandex with a black spandex backing. – In the process, bought some Acoustically Transparent Fabric from Seymour AV.
    2. Build a false wall that will hide the speakers
    3. Get more Valencia Theater seats. They are pretty awesome!
    4. build some new surrounds and install two atmos speakers – Built the Cinema 10
    5. Buy a 3d, 4K projector. Probably the BenQ HT3550 I ended up buying a JVC DLA-46U off marketplace for $400 
    6. Upgrade to an Nvidia Shield for better video and audio – Bought and temporarily installed.
    7. Build a custom cabinet for the popcorn machine, trash and maybe house the electronic equipment.
    8. Build some custom sound absorption panels.
    9. Change out the carpet? Not sure I’ll do this, but an option.
    10. Paint the ceiling.
    11. Move the electronics to the rear of the room





    I wasn’t planning on painting the ceiling, but honestly once the lights are off the ceiling is pretty distracting. So I’ll probably just paint that blue like the walls.


    Cinema 10 Build Log

  • Toids Home Theater Build

    123toid updated 2 months, 2 weeks ago 6 Members · 31 Replies
  • imcokeman

    Member
    May 31, 2021 at 10:52 pm

    Looks like the TV shrunk, you better get a projector in there fast! =)  looks good!

     

  • 123toid

    Administrator
    June 1, 2021 at 5:59 am

    LOL!  It kind of has.  Honestly though, this is the best budget 4K television I have come across.  It has a great 4K picture for it’s price.  Having said that, the ultimate goal is to put up a 100″ acoustically transparent screen with a BenQ projector. That would be a huge upgrade from this 50″. 


  • 123toid

    Administrator
    June 4, 2021 at 6:09 pm

    This will be probably a year long build, maybe more.  But here are the current plans.

     

    1. Build a DIY acoustically transparent screen.  This will be made from white spandex with a black spandex backing.  I’ll test it’s acoustic properties as well.
    2. Build a false wall that will hide the speakers
    3. Get more Valencia Theater seats.  They are pretty awesome!
    4. build some new surrounds and install two atmos speakers
    5. But a 3d, 4K projector.  Probably the BenQ HT3550
    6. Build a custom cabinet for the popcorn machine, trash and maybe house the electronic equipment. 
    7. Build some custom sound absorption panels.
    8. Change out the carpet? Not sure I’ll do this, but an option.
    9. Paint the ceiling. 

  • imcokeman

    Member
    June 5, 2021 at 6:19 pm

    10. Build a folded horn subwoofer into the stadium seating tuned to 12hz

  • 123toid

    Administrator
    March 11, 2022 at 8:14 pm

    Well it is that time. I decided to start on my theater room. I ended up buying a JVC DLA-46U. Now before you think I went all out and bought a $3,500 projector…I didn’t. I actually picked this up on Facebook Marketplace for $400. It only had 150 original hours and even came with an extra bulb. On top of that I bought some fabric to make my own AT screen. I will end up showing you how to do this on my channel when I get finished. I am also considering showing and testing the Acoustically transparent properties. I decided to go with Seymour AV UF, as it allows for closer viewing without seeing the perforations of the screen. In the size room I have, that is very important.

    Now I knew I needed to hang the projector, so I DIY’d a custom mount for the projector. Big thank you to @Chedwin and @tvor-ceasar

    . I know the 2×4’s are a little of an eyesore, but they will be hidden later


    • This reply was modified 3 months, 2 weeks ago by  123toid.
  • elliottdesigns

    Member
    March 13, 2022 at 8:51 am

    Great find!

  • 123toid

    Administrator
    March 20, 2022 at 2:29 am

    All right guys I got a little bit of work done on the theater room this weekend. I added three new outlets to the back that weren’t previously there. Basically I’m just moving my equipment from the front of the room to the rear of the room. At the same time I ran an HDMI cable and four ethernet cables. These are run directly from my switch in my office. I still have more cabling if I decide to add any more ethernet cables, but for now I felt four was enough. I also added a power receptacle for the projector as well as an ethernet cable. It is possible that I might run an IR cable to the projector as well. I’m considering putting an IR by the screen that will relay those to IR emitters on each piece of equipment. This is probably what I’ll do, just haven’t got to that thought process yet.

    All this is done just in time, as I want to test out the APA1200DSP next week. Assuming I have time to put all the ends on the ethernet cables, then I should be able to test it out and review it next week. I’m actually really excited about getting that video out. Not to mention, I’m really excited to find out if the auto tuning actually works as advertised.


  • JasonS124

    Member
    March 21, 2022 at 5:38 pm

    Just replying to follow


    JasonS
  • 123toid

    Administrator
    March 21, 2022 at 9:10 pm

    I had a few minutes to spare, so I was able to put the ends on the ethernet cables. I use these pass-through ends. I found that passing through the cable through the end allows me to quickly and easily identify if I wired it correctly. Now this is the only kind of end that I use. I ended up buying a thousand feet cat6 wire along with this 16 port gigabyte switch. The switch is at my office and I’ve run six wires down to my living room and these four to my theater room. I still have plenty of wire left if I decide to run more.


  • 123toid

    Administrator
    April 1, 2022 at 9:40 pm

    Started working on the false wall. I created the post that will hang the screen on. I also painted behind a matte black to cut down in reflections.


  • 123toid

    Administrator
    April 3, 2022 at 12:38 am

    This is the current layout. I will still be building a riser, that will be about 4.25″ tall for the speakers to stand on. Let me force me to flip the cinema 6 upside down. Currently this layout makes the most sense. Eventually if I build a third Audience 212, the MX15-22 will be moved over. Also, I’ll build at least one more subwoofer.

    In the next few days I’ll be painting both the cinema 6 and the mx15 with the leftover Exohyde I have. That way they aren’t reflective. Behind the screen.


  • 123toid

    Administrator
    April 4, 2022 at 4:09 pm

    I was able to run the speaker wire today. Currently I have everything hooked up to the receiver except for the rear speakers. Those I’m still deciding on placement and I might end up redesigning the box or doing something a little different to build them into the wall. I haven’t quite decided yet. Now I just need to finish the platform and change out those white outlets. You’ll also notice that I plugged a few holes that went through the plywood when I had a regular TV mounted there. I’ll have to sand it down and paint it black.

    I use these to run the wire through. I got to say I’m really loving these connections. I honestly wish I would have used them sooner. They come with a hole saw to cut through your drywall. And then they just use wings to clamp onto the back of the drywall. You just tighten these with a screwdriver. These are significantly nicer than some of the low voltage covers I’ve used in the past. These are going to be my go-to from here on out when I need to run wires like this…at least for now.

    I also just got in the new Dayton audio APA1200DSP. I plan to test this out along with the auto DSP function. This basically comes with a microphone that you can place at your seating area and it will DSP your subwoofer flat. I don’t know how well that works though, so I’ll make sure to test that out in an upcoming video.


  • 123toid

    Administrator
    April 5, 2022 at 10:39 pm

    Can anyone guess what I’m doing tonight?


  • 123toid

    Administrator
    April 6, 2022 at 2:32 am

    I bought some Rockwool safe and sound and built a riser for the speakers. It’s a small riser built just enough to get the speakers center on the main listening position. It also ensure supports on the subwoofers and speakers will not be impressed. Rockwool for those that don’t know is a very good for sound absorption. This helps prevent standing waves in the platform. Tomorrow I’m going to go ahead and cover it.


    • ajc9988

      Member
      April 6, 2022 at 11:16 am

      I bought some 2″ thick insulation boards to use with some speakers.

      https://www.acoustimac.com/roxul-rb6-2in

      https://www.acoustimac.com/roxul-rb6-1in-x12

      The cost of shipping makes it easier to buy in bulk instead of smaller orders, but if people are interested in using Rockwool in their speakers, traps, etc.

    • 123toid

      Administrator
      April 6, 2022 at 11:04 pm

      @ajc9988 sweet! That is very nice! I have some leftover 3″, I am not really sure if I will use them for acoustic panels or if I should get the smaller 1″ to 2″ for that. In my room, the smaller would be better. I guess time will tell. Do you have any thoughts?


    • ajc9988

      Member
      April 7, 2022 at 8:34 am

      For thickness, it really depends on the purpose. For example, if you are building a bass trap, you need, not should, you need 3-4″ thick to stop the wavelength of that deep bass below 125Hz. If you are creating panels to deal with high frequency reflections, then 1 or 2 will be perfectly fine.

      For example, here is some data on the rockwool from acoustimac for the panels. What is funny is even when there isn’t data on the insulation for these factors, all insulation of similar type will be in the ballpark, so safe n sound will do the job.

      What the coefficient means is the percentage as a whole number for stopping a sound at a given frequency, often tested up to 4,000Hz, with NRC being the average of all frequencies. The way measured, you can technically get 1.15, or 115%. So, when you see it around 0.9 or above, that is going to dampen 90% or higher in that frequency range.

      But it is hard to go low. It is said around 15-20% isn’t doing much at all, so when you see 0.2 or less, the insulation for those frequencies will do nothing. So, that means you can use the thinner 1″ and 2″ for helping with mids and highs, really above 250Hz for 2″ Rockwool 60 (about 80%; at 500Hz, it should be over 100%), and 500Hz and above for the 1″ (about 80%, but that is stretching, above 1kHz is definitely fine). For 4″, that will take care of down to under 125Hz.

      https://www.acoustimac.com/roxul-rb6-4in

      This is better than the Roxul (which is rockwool subsidiary) 40 in the chart on the page showing 1.03 at 125Hz, meaning 100% dealing with that deep bass and likely even efficient much lower than that frequency.

      Also why the Safe n Sound you have will do great work in knocking down even low frequencies.

      Now, are you insulating the walls and floor/ceiling of the room below, or are you building room treatments? If just insulating, then there are certain treatments that can be done to the walls, you could use polyurethane membrane between two layers of drywall, you could even put mass loaded vinyl in sheets in front of the insulation but behind the drywall. I doubt you care to go full out (because full out is intense) due to cost of doing a second set of studs, then you have insulation, a 2″ space, then insulation between studs again, then the MLV sheets, then dual layer drywall with polyurethane, then the poly sealant around the edges, etc. Overkill!

      With speakers, unless you want to build a massive enclosure, trying to insulate a sub is futile. But, if you can track the reflections for the subs, you can build traps to deal with first, and possibly second, reflections that can help to control it. What people often do is build a wood frame to hold the insulation, then they get an acoustically transparent fabric and have something artistic printed on it, that way they only have to stretch that over the trap and they can hang it like a piece of art. That helps with the WAF and can really tie the room together.

      So, what thickness to use really depends on how it is being used and for what frequencies it is meant to address.

      http://www.bobgolds.com/AbsorptionCoefficients.htm

      Edit: did some calculations and if that is the 39lb package, and assuming the absorption coefficients on that website are correct, then that is about 53% effective at 125Hz and 96% at 250Hz for the 3″ safe and sound. So it can help trap some bass, but seems the 4″ I tagged will have a better effect if looking to make some bass traps.

      • This reply was modified 2 months, 3 weeks ago by  ajc9988.
      • This reply was modified 2 months, 3 weeks ago by  ajc9988.
    • chedwin

      Member
      April 7, 2022 at 9:56 am

      Just want to add to this discussion a reminder of my room reflection calculation post

      Easy Room Reflection Point Finder

      Makes finding reflection points (where to put absorbsion panels) very easy


      Josh Evans, Professional Live Sound Engineer, High End Commercial AV Install Technician
    • chedwin

      Member
      April 7, 2022 at 10:10 am

      @ajc9988

      You can also improve the low frequency performance of thinner panels by spacing them out from the wall

      In the context of audible frequency range in a high end home theatre or professional audio mixing room the distance from the front of the panel to the surface of the wall matters more than the absolute thickness of the panel (when compared between 2 panels of the same material but differing thickness)

      For example a 4″ panel mounted flush to the wall and a 2″ panel with a 2″ air gap behind it will perform nearly identically when measured.

      In the right conditions the 2″ panel with air gap can measure better than the 4″ flush panel due the higher number of material boundary changes the sound wave travels through (As I understand it the strength of this effect increases the closer to perpendicular to the panels face the sound wave is when it arrives)


      Josh Evans, Professional Live Sound Engineer, High End Commercial AV Install Technician
    • 123toid

      Administrator
      April 7, 2022 at 4:46 pm

      @chedwin Thank you so much for reminding me about the early room reflection finder. I will be using that and will make sure to point others to it when I do a video on it. I wish I could like that more than once.


    • chedwin

      Member
      April 8, 2022 at 5:25 pm

      I suggest pointing them to the forum post rather than directly to the tools website

      Without good prior understanding or clear instructions to follow (like mine 😉) it will be confusing and/or overwhelming and likely to be used wrong. Plus people will then be able to post questions in that thread where I’ll be able to answer them


      Josh Evans, Professional Live Sound Engineer, High End Commercial AV Install Technician
    • 123toid

      Administrator
      April 8, 2022 at 7:14 pm

      I completely agree and I’ll make sure to do that.


    • 123toid

      Administrator
      April 7, 2022 at 9:04 pm

      @ajc9988 excellent information. Thank you!


  • 123toid

    Administrator
    April 8, 2022 at 2:14 pm

    Doing some work on the Theater today. I wrapped the top with speaker grill fabric. My wife was concerned because she could see the Staples. I assured her not to worry as that all will be covered by trim work at the end.

    I also finished the platform for the speakers. Once I get the middle supports in, I’ll paint everything back there black. Then wrap the sides. Finally it’ll be time to make the screen. I’m still not completely sure how I’m going to do the middle portion. I want to make sure to leave that open so I can get speakers in and out if I need to. I’m thinking about maybe velcroing it to the bottom that way you can tear away pretty easily. But I haven’t decided yet


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