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I’m not sure how long my home theater build is going to take, but this is where I’m going to post the pictures and probably even ask for some advice here and there. Well good and first start with a before painted and after painted along with the theater seats by Valencia that I just got.
- Build a DIY acoustically transparent screen.
This will be made from white spandex with a black spandex backing.– In the process, bought some Acoustically Transparent Fabric from Seymour AV. - Build a false wall that will hide the speakers
- Get more Valencia Theater seats. They are pretty awesome!
build some new surroundsand install two atmos speakers – Built the Cinema 10Buy a 3d, 4K projector. Probably the BenQ HT3550I ended up buying a JVC DLA-46U off marketplace for $400- Upgrade to an Nvidia Shield for better video and audio – Bought and temporarily installed.
- Build a custom cabinet for the popcorn machine, trash and maybe house the electronic equipment.
- Build some custom sound absorption panels.
- Change out the carpet? Not sure I’ll do this, but an option.
- Paint the ceiling.
- Move the electronics to the rear of the room
I wasn’t planning on painting the ceiling, but honestly once the lights are off the ceiling is pretty distracting. So I’ll probably just paint that blue like the walls.
- Build a DIY acoustically transparent screen.
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I’m trying to setup my movie theater, I currently have a sound bar, 2 rear speakers and a sub woofer. Is not bad sound, but it could be better. I’m trying to DIY a new setup in which I’m trying to use 3 3-way towers at front, 2 2way rear bookshelf and two subwoofer. I can say I have the setup for the bookshelves and the subwoofers. @123toid do you have a good suggestion on how should I approach the 3-way tower? Pretty much new to this type of DIY.
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That sounds like a really awesome idea. I have a lot of ideas, but really, there’s a lot more questions that need to be asked. Such as what you’re trying to do, what are your goals for your build what I would do is create a new topic and we can all discuss it there. Feel free to tag me in the topic if you’d like.
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LOL! It kind of has. Honestly though, this is the best budget 4K television I have come across. It has a great 4K picture for it’s price. Having said that, the ultimate goal is to put up a 100″ acoustically transparent screen with a BenQ projector. That would be a huge upgrade from this 50″.
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This will be probably a year long build, maybe more. But here are the current plans.
- Build a DIY acoustically transparent screen. This will be made from white spandex with a black spandex backing. I’ll test it’s acoustic properties as well.
- Build a false wall that will hide the speakers
- Get more Valencia Theater seats. They are pretty awesome!
- build some new surrounds and install two atmos speakers
- But a 3d, 4K projector. Probably the BenQ HT3550
- Build a custom cabinet for the popcorn machine, trash and maybe house the electronic equipment.
- Build some custom sound absorption panels.
- Change out the carpet? Not sure I’ll do this, but an option.
- Paint the ceiling.
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10. Build a folded horn subwoofer into the stadium seating tuned to 12hz
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Well it is that time. I decided to start on my theater room. I ended up buying a JVC DLA-46U. Now before you think I went all out and bought a $3,500 projector…I didn’t. I actually picked this up on Facebook Marketplace for $400. It only had 150 original hours and even came with an extra bulb. On top of that I bought some fabric to make my own AT screen. I will end up showing you how to do this on my channel when I get finished. I am also considering showing and testing the Acoustically transparent properties. I decided to go with Seymour AV UF, as it allows for closer viewing without seeing the perforations of the screen. In the size room I have, that is very important.
Now I knew I needed to hang the projector, so I DIY’d a custom mount for the projector. Big thank you to @Chedwin and @tvor-ceasar
. I know the 2×4’s are a little of an eyesore, but they will be hidden later
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All right guys I got a little bit of work done on the theater room this weekend. I added three new outlets to the back that weren’t previously there. Basically I’m just moving my equipment from the front of the room to the rear of the room. At the same time I ran an HDMI cable and four ethernet cables. These are run directly from my switch in my office. I still have more cabling if I decide to add any more ethernet cables, but for now I felt four was enough. I also added a power receptacle for the projector as well as an ethernet cable. It is possible that I might run an IR cable to the projector as well. I’m considering putting an IR by the screen that will relay those to IR emitters on each piece of equipment. This is probably what I’ll do, just haven’t got to that thought process yet.
All this is done just in time, as I want to test out the APA1200DSP next week. Assuming I have time to put all the ends on the ethernet cables, then I should be able to test it out and review it next week. I’m actually really excited about getting that video out. Not to mention, I’m really excited to find out if the auto tuning actually works as advertised.
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I had a few minutes to spare, so I was able to put the ends on the ethernet cables. I use these pass-through ends. I found that passing through the cable through the end allows me to quickly and easily identify if I wired it correctly. Now this is the only kind of end that I use. I ended up buying a thousand feet cat6 wire along with this 16 port gigabyte switch. The switch is at my office and I’ve run six wires down to my living room and these four to my theater room. I still have plenty of wire left if I decide to run more.
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Started working on the false wall. I created the post that will hang the screen on. I also painted behind a matte black to cut down in reflections.
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This is the current layout. I will still be building a riser, that will be about 4.25″ tall for the speakers to stand on. Let me force me to flip the cinema 6 upside down. Currently this layout makes the most sense. Eventually if I build a third Audience 212, the MX15-22 will be moved over. Also, I’ll build at least one more subwoofer.
In the next few days I’ll be painting both the cinema 6 and the mx15 with the leftover Exohyde I have. That way they aren’t reflective. Behind the screen.
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I was able to run the speaker wire today. Currently I have everything hooked up to the receiver except for the rear speakers. Those I’m still deciding on placement and I might end up redesigning the box or doing something a little different to build them into the wall. I haven’t quite decided yet. Now I just need to finish the platform and change out those white outlets. You’ll also notice that I plugged a few holes that went through the plywood when I had a regular TV mounted there. I’ll have to sand it down and paint it black.
I use these to run the wire through. I got to say I’m really loving these connections. I honestly wish I would have used them sooner. They come with a hole saw to cut through your drywall. And then they just use wings to clamp onto the back of the drywall. You just tighten these with a screwdriver. These are significantly nicer than some of the low voltage covers I’ve used in the past. These are going to be my go-to from here on out when I need to run wires like this…at least for now.
I also just got in the new Dayton audio APA1200DSP. I plan to test this out along with the auto DSP function. This basically comes with a microphone that you can place at your seating area and it will DSP your subwoofer flat. I don’t know how well that works though, so I’ll make sure to test that out in an upcoming video.
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I bought some Rockwool safe and sound and built a riser for the speakers. It’s a small riser built just enough to get the speakers center on the main listening position. It also ensure supports on the subwoofers and speakers will not be impressed. Rockwool for those that don’t know is a very good for sound absorption. This helps prevent standing waves in the platform. Tomorrow I’m going to go ahead and cover it.
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I bought some 2″ thick insulation boards to use with some speakers.
https://www.acoustimac.com/roxul-rb6-2in
https://www.acoustimac.com/roxul-rb6-1in-x12
The cost of shipping makes it easier to buy in bulk instead of smaller orders, but if people are interested in using Rockwool in their speakers, traps, etc.
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@ajc9988 sweet! That is very nice! I have some leftover 3″, I am not really sure if I will use them for acoustic panels or if I should get the smaller 1″ to 2″ for that. In my room, the smaller would be better. I guess time will tell. Do you have any thoughts?
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For thickness, it really depends on the purpose. For example, if you are building a bass trap, you need, not should, you need 3-4″ thick to stop the wavelength of that deep bass below 125Hz. If you are creating panels to deal with high frequency reflections, then 1 or 2 will be perfectly fine.
For example, here is some data on the rockwool from acoustimac for the panels. What is funny is even when there isn’t data on the insulation for these factors, all insulation of similar type will be in the ballpark, so safe n sound will do the job.
What the coefficient means is the percentage as a whole number for stopping a sound at a given frequency, often tested up to 4,000Hz, with NRC being the average of all frequencies. The way measured, you can technically get 1.15, or 115%. So, when you see it around 0.9 or above, that is going to dampen 90% or higher in that frequency range.
But it is hard to go low. It is said around 15-20% isn’t doing much at all, so when you see 0.2 or less, the insulation for those frequencies will do nothing. So, that means you can use the thinner 1″ and 2″ for helping with mids and highs, really above 250Hz for 2″ Rockwool 60 (about 80%; at 500Hz, it should be over 100%), and 500Hz and above for the 1″ (about 80%, but that is stretching, above 1kHz is definitely fine). For 4″, that will take care of down to under 125Hz.
https://www.acoustimac.com/roxul-rb6-4in
This is better than the Roxul (which is rockwool subsidiary) 40 in the chart on the page showing 1.03 at 125Hz, meaning 100% dealing with that deep bass and likely even efficient much lower than that frequency.
Also why the Safe n Sound you have will do great work in knocking down even low frequencies.
Now, are you insulating the walls and floor/ceiling of the room below, or are you building room treatments? If just insulating, then there are certain treatments that can be done to the walls, you could use polyurethane membrane between two layers of drywall, you could even put mass loaded vinyl in sheets in front of the insulation but behind the drywall. I doubt you care to go full out (because full out is intense) due to cost of doing a second set of studs, then you have insulation, a 2″ space, then insulation between studs again, then the MLV sheets, then dual layer drywall with polyurethane, then the poly sealant around the edges, etc. Overkill!
With speakers, unless you want to build a massive enclosure, trying to insulate a sub is futile. But, if you can track the reflections for the subs, you can build traps to deal with first, and possibly second, reflections that can help to control it. What people often do is build a wood frame to hold the insulation, then they get an acoustically transparent fabric and have something artistic printed on it, that way they only have to stretch that over the trap and they can hang it like a piece of art. That helps with the WAF and can really tie the room together.
So, what thickness to use really depends on how it is being used and for what frequencies it is meant to address.
http://www.bobgolds.com/AbsorptionCoefficients.htm
Edit: did some calculations and if that is the 39lb package, and assuming the absorption coefficients on that website are correct, then that is about 53% effective at 125Hz and 96% at 250Hz for the 3″ safe and sound. So it can help trap some bass, but seems the 4″ I tagged will have a better effect if looking to make some bass traps.
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Just want to add to this discussion a reminder of my room reflection calculation post
Makes finding reflection points (where to put absorbsion panels) very easy
Josh Evans, Professional Live Sound Engineer, High End Commercial AV Install Technician -
You can also improve the low frequency performance of thinner panels by spacing them out from the wall
In the context of audible frequency range in a high end home theatre or professional audio mixing room the distance from the front of the panel to the surface of the wall matters more than the absolute thickness of the panel (when compared between 2 panels of the same material but differing thickness)
For example a 4″ panel mounted flush to the wall and a 2″ panel with a 2″ air gap behind it will perform nearly identically when measured.
In the right conditions the 2″ panel with air gap can measure better than the 4″ flush panel due the higher number of material boundary changes the sound wave travels through (As I understand it the strength of this effect increases the closer to perpendicular to the panels face the sound wave is when it arrives)
Josh Evans, Professional Live Sound Engineer, High End Commercial AV Install Technician -
@chedwin Thank you so much for reminding me about the early room reflection finder. I will be using that and will make sure to point others to it when I do a video on it. I wish I could like that more than once.
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I suggest pointing them to the forum post rather than directly to the tools website
Without good prior understanding or clear instructions to follow (like mine 😉) it will be confusing and/or overwhelming and likely to be used wrong. Plus people will then be able to post questions in that thread where I’ll be able to answer them
Josh Evans, Professional Live Sound Engineer, High End Commercial AV Install Technician -
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Doing some work on the Theater today. I wrapped the top with speaker grill fabric. My wife was concerned because she could see the Staples. I assured her not to worry as that all will be covered by trim work at the end.
I also finished the platform for the speakers. Once I get the middle supports in, I’ll paint everything back there black. Then wrap the sides. Finally it’ll be time to make the screen. I’m still not completely sure how I’m going to do the middle portion. I want to make sure to leave that open so I can get speakers in and out if I need to. I’m thinking about maybe velcroing it to the bottom that way you can tear away pretty easily. But I haven’t decided yet
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Speakers are temporarily in place. I still need to paint the subwoofer and the center black with Exohyde. I’m going to try to go ahead and put the black fabric up for the sides. Once that’s finished, then I’ll paint the speakers black. If all goes well, it’ll all be ready for the projector screen by the end of the night.
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The speaker grill fabric doesn’t look the greatest, that’s because I ran out of staples. Tomorrow I will make a quick run to the store to get staples. Once I have everything nice and tight I’ll build the screen.
For now I get to flip a bunch of breakers until I figure out which one those outlets are on. And I’m going to switch those out with some black outlets.
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I was able to wrap up the speaker grill fabric. Next, I’ll build the screen and hang it. Once that is up I’ll figure out exactly how I want to finish the bottom piece. The one thing I know for sure is that I want it to be removable. That would just make it much easier to put new speakers in or take these out if necessary.
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My suggestion
-Make a black panel that fills the entire opening the same way the outer sections are made
-Hang the middle panel on hooks or something similar to take the weight from the top
-Embed magnetic catches on both side of the joint on each side of the centre panel. the magnets stop the panel swinging around but dont need to hold any weight
-Make and hang screen in front of all this as originally planned
badly drawn diagram below
Josh Evans, Professional Live Sound Engineer, High End Commercial AV Install Technician -
That’sa great idea. I might just do that. I may end up having to go back and get some material, but that is easy enough.
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The screen is made and up! This screen uses Seymour AV Fabric (Center Stage UF) and they’re velvet. If I had to do it over again. I would use velvet that had a adhesive backing on it like this. The velvet was by far the part I’m not happy with. I will say that I’m very happy with the screen material. It has done a fantastic job making the projector brighter and getting more color out of the darker scenes.
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3D? Didn’t that die? No it did not! And I am loving it on this JVC projector! I finally got around to trying out 3d on the projector. Before I even hooked up a 3d disc, I noticed it had a 2d to 3d conversion. Yokes! I have tried these before and they are…well typically…terrible. But I thought, what the heck, I’ll try it anyway. I turned on Plex navigated to I Robot and played the opening scene. I figured if anything could look cool, it would be that. Especially with all the bubbles going on the screen, etc. I honestly was not expecting much. But boy, this combination blew me away! I was honestly asking myself, am I sure this isn’t a 3D movie? Of course, I knew it wasn’t, but boy it was hard to tell it wasn’t. I ended up using these Samsung 3D glasses (much cheaper on Ebay). I wish the lenses were a little bigger. But I really can’t complain, because the image was so perfect. It just takes some adjusting since I wear corrective lenses. I might end up getting some contacts in the future.
I did try a 3d movie as well and it was awesome. The depth of this combination was incredible. Typically 3D movies are too dark and you lose some detail, but this was not the case with either the conversion or 3D directly from the disc. It looks like I will be watching a 3D movie tonight! Now time to order some more glasses (4 more on the way). Now I need to decide exactly how many I want… Is 7 enough?
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That sounds great! Good to hear the conversion worked well too. By the way, the image dims because 1/2 of the frames being produced go to the left, the other half to the right. The active glasses are the things blocking one eye and then the other. So the projector shoots L->R->L->. So it essentially plays a 24FPS movie at 48FPS. Does that make sense? I hope that makes sense. Either it’s compensating by getting brighter in 3D mode or I’m guessing it’s switching frequency is higher than usual? Like 96FPS for a 24FPS movie?
Elliott Dyson – Elliott Designs (YouTube) – 3rd year MENG Student -
“… Is 7 enough?”
(I’m going to show my age here)
No, 8 is Enough.( https://instantrimshot.com/index.php?sound=rimshot&play=true )
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Dumb OT Q: how does one start a new topic on the forum? I don’t see it as an option top of the page. Possible I just don’t see it.
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