Home Forums Car Audio with Livin’ Loud with Andy Underseat car subwoofer

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    As anyone explored using a Tang Band W3 or W5, (Voxel?) as a low power requirement subwoofer for under the driver’s seat?

  • Underseat car subwoofer

  • 123toid

    February 20, 2022 at 11:56 pm

    That is a cool idea, I haven’t tried it. One thing I know others have done, is they used bass shakers, if you just want the tactile feel. But if you want the bass frequencies, those wouldn’t be any help at all.

    Underseat car subwoofer

  • 123toid

    February 20, 2022 at 11:58 pm

    @livinloudwithandy might have some experience with this as well.

  • livinloudwithandy

    February 21, 2022 at 1:40 am

    Well I wouldn’t say that you couldn’t use that driver – more so should you ..

    You could definitely try it and I’m sure if you had a few of them it could make up some things where it would lack

    I mean a 3” driver with an fs of 100hz and an EBO of 240+ it’s sorta off the scales of “subwoofer” more so a mid bass driver but anything is possible..

    Since they are so small I would wire a few together and build an Enclosure that will work with however many you decided to go with

    What are your overall goals and restrictions of this build ?

  • NickD

    February 21, 2022 at 12:51 pm

    What about a small box under the driver’s seat using <b itemprop=”name” style=”font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit;”>Dayton Audio DCS205-4 8″Dayton Audio DCS205-4 8″…Just<b itemprop=”name” style=”font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit;”> looking to add some lower frequencies, nothing that crazy.

  • tvor-ceasar

    February 21, 2022 at 10:04 pm

    I had a thread that, I think disappeared before the forum change over, but it stayed with me. It was a comparison between the https://www.parts-express.com/Tang-Band-W6-2253S-6-1-2-Low-Profile-Subwoofer-264-937 and the https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-LW150-4-6-Low-Profile-Woofer-4-Ohms-295-255
    Both run an optimum box volume of about 0.5 CuFt, but the Tang Band needs a 2″ port almost 17″ long while the Dayton only needs a 2″ port 9.5″ long. The Tang Band can take more power before hitting xmax, but starts at a 6dB deficiency under the Dayton. The Dayton will start hitting xmax at closer to 20 watts, which will put it near 100dB. The Tang Band has to use close to 100W to get that far. What is nice about these drivers is their super slim depth, 1.5″ (Dayton) and 1.8″ (TB). Dayton has a Fb of 39 and a F3 of 30.4, while the TB Fb = 30.8, F3 = 26.7

    Your 8″ is deeper (4.23″) but has more power handling, digs deeper and has more xmax. Grabbing an optimum box size, that’d be 0.82 CuFt, but a 3″ port would need to be almost 19″ long. Now, since this is under seat, you could run the port outside the box around the perimeter. No one would see it, especially if you paint it black. Fb and F3 = 33 and SPL is already up at 88.6 DB (2.5 more than the Dayton above) so you’ll get more out of it.

    I have not put any of these into WinISD yet to check for actual Xmax, port velocities, or anything else, so feel free to check my info. I actually encourage it.