@Chronic.sound
First off, welcome to the forum! Glad to have you and we’ll do everything we can to help out.
Second, links won’t be available until after your 5th post, so we cannot see what you linked. (This keeps Spammers at bay)
Now, to your question(s).
While you can do what the manufacturers do and add up all the driver wattages to get a total, you really need to consider the main driver, i.e. the DC130B-8, for the real power dissipation since most of the energy will be in the lower frequencies. It takes more power to produce good bass than it does to produce good upper mid and high frequencies.
With that said, you are looking at 40W RMS and 80W Max. So, 40W is the safe average power the driver can handle on a continuous basis, while the 80W is what it can handle in short bursts, with enough time between to dissipate the additional heat created by the extra power. To be honest, there is very little music out there that will cause problems since these ratings usually deal with continuous Sine waves at single frequencies (like 1kHz) or something like Pink Noise that has many Sine wave frequencies mixed together. That will stress a driver much more than music, which is full of many varying frequencies at different levels, along with silent or “dead space” mixed in as part of the signal. This lowers the average power needed to actually reproduce music vs. Sine waves.
So I have to assume what you are seeing is the driver in free air, since you didn’t say if you had measured them in the intended enclosure. This will have an impact on how well controlled the driver will be. Generally, a sealed box presents more air impedance that helps keep the woofer/midwoofer/subwoofer from very easily hitting such maximum excursions that you are seeing on the graphs. Ported boxes present their own air impedances, just know that below the F3 they tend to get less controlled. Measuring “in-box” will have an effect on the FRD and ZMA files, so take what you are working with at the moment as a starting point that is subject to change in the future.
Now, you have a 40W amp, so you won’t have to worry so much about the higher wattages until such time as you upgrade. And I doubt you’ll have any real problems because, most likely, you’ll start to hear distortion before any over-driving will occur. That tends to be the nature of the beast.
I hope this helps. If you have any more questions or need clarification, just ask.