Blog Forums DIY Speakers and Subwoofers DINAS big brother(s) Reply To: RE: DINAS big brother(s)



Nah, it’s fine, we were all noobs at one point. If the tweeter already has an enclosure, open baffle wouldn’t make a difference and 100W RMS would be fine. If it doesn’t come with its own enclosure (unlikely but can happen) then you need to test it in the enclosure you are building it in winISD and see what wattage it can handle with your crossover filter simulated in the filter tab. You then increase the wattage whilst looking at driver displacement until it reaches xmax, that should be your maximum wattage value. (you can ignore all that if the tweeter is enclosed because the RMS value they provide you would already take the excursion into account).

You do the same with the woofer and the subwoofer to see what the maximum wattage you should be feeding those is. With the high pass applied to the woofer you are simulating, and the low pass applied on the subwoofer. (This gives you accurate results but you need to make sure the crossovers are applied before you put any power into them otherwise you can go past excursion limits and damage the drivers). Steeper filters allow for less excursion but when using linear phase filters it will keep adding more and more delay for the filter to still be accurate. So try and find a happy medium. I would say setting the subwoofer to woofer crossover at 80hz is usually a safe bet. Depending on how capable the woofer driver is though, this may need to be set higher. Unfortunately when going higher than 80hz you might start ‘hearing’ the subwoofer which you might not like. Anything up to 120hz isn’t too noticeable for most but people more sensitive to directional cues would want to keep it around 80hz. Any lower than 80 there’s really no point unless you are setting your sound system up in a warehouse 😂🤣.



Elliott Dyson – Elliott Designs (YouTube) – 3rd year MENG Student

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