Blog Forums DIY Speakers and Subwoofers Looking for a linear subwoofer that can still take some power? Reply To: RE: Looking for a linear subwoofer that can still take some power?


@woldemort I have found that cabin gain does start to roll off around 15hz, but it’s also true that cabin gain is difficult to model, so the general trend is what you should look for. you really should try to simulate your car for the starting frequency, 70hz is something a smaller hatchback like a mini cooper would have, if you are sealing off the trunk then yours might be even higher. A slight rise in low end is also preferred yes, especially in cars because road noise tends to be around the same frequencies so you have to compensate. 

What kind of music do you listen to? Organ is really the only music I know that has content below 20 hz and even electronically simulated music is rarely below 25hz. Generally a box tuned to 27hz is the lowest I would ever go in a car because it will control excursion down to 20hz and it should get you a rise to around 24hz. Lower than that and you’ll need to sacrifice port area, which will lead to chuffing. The only exception would be if you want to do crazy low-frequency demos that flex the car into pieces. 

Tuning below fs isn’t really a problem with dedicated subwoofers, because, at those frequencies below fs, our brain has trouble hearing the distortion. Where tuning below fs becomes a problem is when the bass driver is also playing midrange, the intermodular distortion is what is audible, meaning when the driver plays that low note, if it’s also trying to play vocals or something, those will sound distorted. As long as a LP is applied, it’s not an issue.

If you’re using parametric eq then going with a max spl approach can be a good idea, but if you have to make drastic changes, then you might notice it because the sub will be working much harder on certain frequencies than others.

Yeah the MX15 was more of an example, if you’re looking at something to take that power you really need to look at car audio-focused drivers because it’s not possible to get that kind of power out of most house outlets so Dayton doesn’t really make their subs to take it. In Finland I’m really not sure what you can get, most of the stuff that is really good here in the U.S. is from small distributors like SI, PSI, FI, etc. They aren’t likely to have international distribution at a good price. The big companies like Rockford, Alpine, Kicker usually don’t have the same value. B2 audio maybe? Their nice stuff is really spendy here but maybe not where you are because they are from Denmark, right?

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