Home Forums DIY Speakers and Subwoofers Looking for a linear subwoofer that can still take some power? Reply To: RE: Looking for a linear subwoofer that can still take some power?

  • mistersota

    June 13, 2021 at 11:04 pm

    @woldemort tight spider vs loose spider isn’t really a good way to look at things because other things like motor force and vas come into play. The best sub is one that will work well in the ported alignment you want. QTS is really the best spec to look at if you want to know that. low qts .2-.4ish will work best in a small enclosure with a low tuning. It will provide an extended roll off that can be eqed up or take advantage of cabin gain. Thats the boombox alignment in winisd basically. ,4-.6 will work best in a medium enclosure with a medium tuning and will have a steeper rolloff, but more output up to that rolloff. .6-.8 aren’t recommended in ported boxes normally, because they tend to need larger boxes and have steep rolloff, however, with cabin gain and a small enclosure, they can work well. They are suited best for sealed boxes because they tend to have a 12db/octave rolloff in reasonable enclosures which matches the cabin gain filter well. .8+ are generally used for large sealed or IB configs.

    Overall, since you are looking for something low fs and want it to take advantage of cabin gain .3ish would be a good starting point to look at. A side effect of a low fs driver is low sensitivity as well. To make up for that you’ll want to find a high vas driver, unfortunately with that, Xmax generally suffers, so you really have to make a trade somewhere. As far as finding something that is low distortion, things to look for are “relatively low inductance”. I’d say under 3 is good for 15s, shorting rings are also good. Unfortunately again these things aren’t really on budget high power subs, so again you might have to compromise. I really wish their was one perfect sub, but its just not possible.

    Anything past those options is really just sound quality “magic” in my opinion. The “sealed subs are faster” and such is just false. The only reason that myth came around is that ported boxes can be harder to get right, and people were used to hearing peaky responses. In reality, almost any sub playing within its linearity will sound the same if the frequency response is good. That said, I usually have sealed subs in my cars, but actually, the sub is the thing I worry about least in my car audio systems because bass is so easy to get. It’s the mids and tweeter that usually can’t keep up. Maybe with those Lavoce mids that might not be true though.

    Speaking of mids, are you making ported boxes for those mids, most of the problem with using pa drivers for mids is that they have a low qts which is made for midrange in sealed boxes or midbass in ported boxes. If you are planning on going sealed or better yet IB then something with a higher qts will probably be better. I’m not sure if you guys have SB acoustics or SB audience in Europe, but they have a budget IB model the Bianco 120B150 that is made just for that. I have actually heard of people using PA drivers for their subs because the are so high sensitivity, but I doubt you’d find one with low enough fs and enough xmax for your amp. At least at a reasonable price.

    It’s good to hear that you have good luck with used. Like I said I wish I had a better answer as to what you should get, but sq subs aren’t really made for high power, to play low, be sensitive, work well in ported enclosures, and be cheap. You will have to make some trade-offs.