Although you can’t get accurate bass without a klipper indoors, you can still use time windowing methods to get a decent bass response representative of the driver and enclosure. Another but more difficult method is to get a battery powered amplifier and take your speakers outdoors, ideally into a largish field, have some way to get it off the ground, take your laptop too and take measurements outside, that way you don’t get the room interfering with your bass response, although this method is a pain to do, and may be impossible for some.
For the frequency dependent windowing (FDR) a good typical filter to apply should be one that gives you a 6/1 cycles window since most rooms have a transition frequency of about 600hz. If not looking at that transition frequency 15/15 is a good alternative for 20hz to 20khz, or if these aren’t available the Hamming gating is great too!
Remember to apply Physchoacoustic/ERB filtering to your responses, otherwise imperceptible sharp dips and any tiny dips/peaks will be visible, we don’t want any of those because they are inaudible and will just distract us.
Hope this helps!