Reply To: RE: Subwoofer End Table

Blog Forums DIY Speakers and Subwoofers How to Make a Subwoofer End Table Reply To: RE: Subwoofer End Table

#11889
123toid
Keymaster

Build Plans

 

Parts Used:

15″ woofer: https://bit.ly/pn395-8

250w Plate Amplifier: http://bit.ly/30UimHx

2 Ports: http://bit.ly/4inport

1/4″ T Nuts and bolts: https://bit.ly/33vD181

 

Box Dimensions:

This box uses 3/4″ material. The dimensions can change a little to fit your space, but make sure you can fit everything.  Here are the dimensions I used. This is for the box only, not counting top or feet.

Height: 17.5″

Width 21″

Depth 25″

 

Cut List:

This a sample cut list from a piece of 4′ x 8′ stock.

(2) Top and Bottom: 25″x21″

(2) Front and Rear: 21″x16″

(2) Sides: 16″x21.5″

 

Ports:

For this I am using two 4″ precision ports for each subwoofer built. The ports come as 5 different pieces.  One long piece, two flared ends and two connecting pieces.  Take the long piece and cut it down to 10″ on each port.  You you will want to glue to ports together.  You will probably need to do this in the enclosure.  The pieces may not fit through your port opening, so it is best to glue them in the port hole. For this, I use CA glue or gorilla glue.  I love the CA glue, because it is so fast (if using the activator). Just make sure your parts are lined up before hand, as you only get one shot if you use that activator.  You will need to screw these in.  You will need four #6 screws.  You can pick up a pack at PE or just buy what you need at your local hardware store.  I like to go to Ace Hardware, as you can buy individual screws.

 

Top:

The top can be anything you want. But you will typically want it to stick over the edge at least 3/4″ to 1″ on each side – personal choice.  You can also make it the top of your box if you want it to be shorter.  Just make sure you account for this in your dimensions.  I used 3/4″ Oak that I picked up from my local lumber store. I bought 1 piece of 1×12.  Lumber bought is typically bought at common size and not actual size.  The actual size of this lumber was 3/4″ x 11.25″.  This meant I did not have to cut the width down.  Glued together, was 22.5″ which left 3/4″ overhang on each side. I just need to cut the board into two 26.5″ in length.  Then glued these together. 

 

Feet:

The feet can be any shape you want.  I just made a simple design and cut it out on the cnc.  But you could easily use a wooden dowel or even buy legs at your local hardware store.  Mine are approximately 3″ tall.  If you wanted to shorten your feet you should be able to.  The max excursion of that woofer is only about 1/4″ and the woofer sits out 3/4″.  So you could possibly shrink it to about 2″ although I have never tried it, so you would be taking a risk.

 

Braces:

Yes you should brace the box.  The best thing to do is get the ports installed and then cut some scarp 3/4″ straight pieces and install them in places that will not get in the want of the ports, sub or amplifier.  You can also use a 3/4″ wooden dowel if you want.  Just place these both horizontally and vertically where you can.  Make sure to leave enough room for 

 

Dampening Material:

This can be used in a subwoofer.  You can buy some from PE or just go to your local Walmart and pick up an foam topper for a mattress.  Just line the walls with it and use staples or spray glue to keep it in place. 

 

External Design:

This is also personal choice.  I went ahead and just used a 2′ x 4′ piece of 1/4″ material and cut the pieces to size on each side.  The width I cut to 3.5″.  Keep in mind, if you do this, that once you add the ones to the sides or front, you will be gaining 1/2″ which will need to be accounted for.  So if you do what I did, cut all the sides or front. and glue and nail them on. Then cut the sides  or front, whatever is left.  

 

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