The Cinema 10 build – The novice edition
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The official Cinema 10 Build log thread is here: 123toid Cinema 10 build log
This thread will showcase my Cinema 10 build process as suggested by other members in the forum. I will try to list every step I had to take, the tools I used and the difficulties/issues I had to face while building the Cinema 10 speakers. The idea is to discuss the build process from a novice point of view.
Maybe this thread will help others who have never built speakers before. Maybe experienced members in the forum will look at this thread too and pitch in, with the better ways of handling various tasks.
What I won’t list in the thread is the crossover building process and the components used since it is IP and the components list is only available to people who purchased the build plan. I will, however, post the pictures of the finished crossover and will add a small description. If you have purchased the Cinema 10 build plan and want to discuss the crossover, please PM me.
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How do we think 5 of these would work for a small room 5.1 system?
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I started this thread but my posts got merged in my Home Theater build thread due to some changes in the forum. You can look at those posts here. Just scroll down a bit:
https://toidsdiyaudio.com/forums/discussion/the-home-theater-build-code-named-tht/page/7/
I built 4 of these for use as surrounds in my home theater. But honestly, these Cinema 10s are great speakers. Without risking repeating myself, here is my thoughts on Cinema 10s for the HT use. You can find this post on the page 8 of the thread link I pasted above.
In short, I would highly recommend these speakers for 5.1 setup.
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What an awesome project and thanks for the input!
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Absolutely! For the record, the Cinema 10 speakers build was my first DIY speaker project. If you have any questions, do post them so people here can help you with your process.
Good luck!
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I completely agree with @Nate I would encourage anyone to build 5 of these for a 5.1. They would sound fantastic. Some of the best value speakers I know of. To this day I am impressed with how they sound. P.S. they are my main rear speakers. And if I wasn’t always building speakers, I would probably have 5 of these as well.
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@Toids_DIY_Audio thank you for the input! Just need to get a few honey do projects out of the way and I will have my runway cleared to start.
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Sweet! Hopefully the list includes making some Cinema 10 speakers 🙂 In all seriousness, we would love for you to share some pictures along the way. Make sure to tag me, so I see them right away. I look forward to seeing the build!
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Thank you for sharing. I’m very interested in building those.
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@Toids_DIY_Audio Can you tell me if there is a plan included for the crossover board that includes the layout?
I’m curious to know what is included when you buy the plans.
I’m trying to plan and figure out my cost for the component, but obviously the crossover component are not disclosed for IP reasons. Looking online, for the woofer,compressionDriver+waveguide+plan I’m around 315$CAD (wood, cross-over and binding post not included). I wounder how much I should plan for the cross-over in term of cost?. I’m in canada, And I want to build 6 for wides, side surround and back surround for my theater. I want to start with one, listen to it and decide whether I like it enough to build 5 others. Can I change the depth and reduce it?
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The plan includes the Crossover layout and components. I cannot recall how much the components cost but I would throw in another 50 – 70 bucks for the components. I could be off here but not by much!
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Thanks! Are those number cad or usd?
Do you remember if there was some space behind the drivers to reduce the depth of the box? I would increase the width to keep the same volume. They would fit a 8″ deep, but I wouldn’t mind shaving 0.5″ or 1′ if possible. Thank you
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Take note that everything is front mounted, so whatever depth you have for the driver assembly is reduced by the front baffle thickness. The horn assembly is deeper than the woofer, so that will control the minimum depth.
Horn = 4-1/4″
Driver = 2.2″ (~2-1/4″)
Flange when screwed in ?1/2 to 3/4″?
Front baffle is what, 3/4″? That makes the horn 3-1/2″. So 3-1/2(+)2-1/4(+)1/2-3/4 = 6-1/4 to 6-1/2″ from inside front baffle to back of driver. Add another 3/4″ for back of box and add back the front baffle and you end up with 7-3/4 to 8″ outside depth. Doesn’t look like you can shrink it using that combo. However, if you use the alternative driver listed on its shopping page, you can lose the adapter and gain 1/2″ to 3/4″ of clearance needed to shrink the box by that much.
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I’m looking to build also.
FYI – Since the xover is part of the plans I will not post the details.
But, I just priced the xover parts at Parts Express and it came to just under $30 (US) before tax and shipping. Two of the parts are back ordered with estimate of 3/15 restock. You probably could find replacements for those if needing before then.
That does not include the terminal post or ports if you were getting those. PE ports suggested in the plans are on back order as well to 3/15. Two of those @ $5ish each.
This is not in the plans. But, it will help me with the xover layout. I’m planning on using MTG90s generic xover board. It not exact but I can jump the open areas. @ $12
If anyone has a good source to CNC the box it would be appreciated. If we could at least find a source to do the face/front of it would be helpful. That is probably true on most plans. The front only would reduce shipping and is the hardest part. The rest would just be a box. But, I’d take a full flat pack or the front only if I could find it!!! I may start a different thread for this item!!
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Nate’s reply disappeared, but I have it in an email. Here it is:
Nate
Thanks! Are those number cad or usd?
The USD.
Also, @TVOR-Ceasar has it right. The woofer was not the issue, it was the horn & the compression driver. I bought the Drivers that did not require me to buy the adapter and even then it was a snug fit.
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Thank you Nate and TVOR-Ceasar. I’ll think about all this😀
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Perfect.
In my opinion, the Cinema 10s are the best bang for the bucks and a perfect candidate for the DIY-ers, including the first time speaker builders. Building these do not take the expertise required for more complex speakers.
Good luck!
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