@ikea2000
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Not at all. I’m a total beginner at speakers.
The 0.7 cuFt number comes from a manual from the manufacturers website. Point 6. https://pyleaudio.com/Manuals/PIC6E.pdf
“If a defined, consistent sound is desired to yield the ideal cubic footage for the driver. Insulation would then be put in this spaceduring speaker installation. – Refer to blocking chart for details.”If you calculate the space referred to it equates to about 0.67 cu Ft or 19.0 L. I can try to make a test speaker and see how it works.
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This reply was modified 1 year, 11 months ago by
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This reply was modified 1 year, 11 months ago by
Main reason is I needed more volume.
I firstly created the half with the speaker in it and it had about half of the volume I needed. Because the speaker has to be close to the ceiling and the rear wall, and angled, it’s a very tight spot (see the room layout in the AVS Post).
So I couldn’t add volume behind, above or to the right side, my option left was…in front of it.I can add it to the outer side and have it wedge shaped as it is, just longer on one side. But it will stick out from my partially lowered ceiling.
Coincidence, I’m doing something similar.
I have 4 in-ceilings that need boxes and I started designing about 3 weeks ago but getting stuck in the design phase. My design criteria includes closed, 0.7 cu ft, shallow enough to place in the ideal spot, and maybe aesthetically pleasing.So far I’ve made a couple of designs but non l find good enough. One of the earlier designs below, but more to come. I’ve only angled these 25* as the tweeter can be angled about 20* for a total of 45*.
https://www.avsforum.com/threads/sanity-check-enclosure-for-in-ceiling-speakers.3297928/#post-63232993Do you know of a good software to calculate volume from more wild designs? (I’ve been eyeing Rhino 3D)
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This reply was modified 1 year, 11 months ago by
